Top 15 'Mindful-Mending' Sashiko Stitch Patterns to learn for upcycling worn-out denim on weekends - Goh Ling Yong
That favorite pair of denim jeans. We all have one. They fit just right, worn in and softened over years of adventures, big and small. But then, the inevitable happens—a threadbare knee gives way, a pocket corner frays, or a seam starts to surrender. Before you sigh and toss them into the donation pile, what if I told you that this moment of wear isn't an end, but a beautiful new beginning?
Welcome to the world of Sashiko, the traditional Japanese art of decorative reinforcement stitching. More than just a mending technique, Sashiko is a form of "mindful mending." It’s a slow, rhythmic practice that transforms rips and holes into stunning, personal works of art. Rooted in the philosophies of wabi-sabi (finding beauty in imperfection) and mottainai (a feeling of regret concerning waste), Sashiko invites you to slow down, connect with your hands, and breathe new life into cherished garments.
This weekend, instead of scrolling, why not create? We’ve curated a list of 15 essential Sashiko stitch patterns, each with its own story and charm. Grab a needle, some Sashiko thread, and that worn-out denim you couldn’t bear to part with. Let’s turn those signs of wear into badges of honor.
1. Tate-Jima (Vertical Stripes)
Let's start with the absolute foundation. Tate-Jima is a pattern of simple, parallel running stitches. Its beauty lies in its understated elegance and its ability to create a sense of order and calm. Don't be fooled by its simplicity; mastering the evenness of your stitches here will build the core skills you need for every other pattern on this list.
This pattern is incredibly versatile. Use it to reinforce a long, thin tear along a seam or create a subtle, textured patch over a weakening thigh area. For a modern twist, try using a variegated thread to create a gentle gradient of color across the stripes. It's the perfect first step into the world of visible mending, proving that even the most basic stitch can be profoundly beautiful.
2. Asanoha (Hemp Leaf)
Perhaps the most iconic and beloved Sashiko pattern, Asanoha is a geometric design representing overlapping hemp leaves. In Japanese culture, hemp is known for its rapid, strong growth, making this pattern a symbol of health, resilience, and good fortune. It's a visually stunning pattern that looks far more complex to stitch than it actually is.
The Asanoha pattern is a showstopper, ideal for making a statement on a large patch, like the back panel of a denim jacket or a significant knee repair. The interlocking star-like shapes provide incredible structural reinforcement. Tip: Use a water-soluble marker and a stencil or ruler to draw the grid first. This will ensure your leaves are symmetrical and your finished piece looks crisp and professional.
3. Seigaiha (Blue Ocean Waves)
Another classic, Seigaiha depicts overlapping concentric circles that mimic the endless, rolling waves of the ocean. This pattern symbolizes peace, good luck, and fortitude—the power of the calm but persistent sea. It's a graceful and flowing design that adds a sense of organic movement to the stiff structure of denim.
Seigaiha works beautifully along the hem of jeans, the cuff of a jacket sleeve, or across a back pocket. The curved lines of the stitch can be a bit challenging for beginners, so take your time. Stitching this pattern can feel incredibly meditative, like watching the tide ebb and flow. For a striking effect, use a traditional indigo thread on light-wash denim to evoke the classic blue-and-white aesthetic.
4. Jujizunagi (Ten Crosses)
If you need a pattern that is both simple and incredibly strong, look no further than Jujizunagi. This design consists of a grid of interconnected crosses or plus signs. It's a type of hitomezashi (one-stitch Sashiko), where the pattern is formed by a grid of single stitches. It’s dense, durable, and wonderfully geometric.
This is my go-to pattern for areas that experience a lot of stress, like the crotch of jeans or the elbow of a jacket. The interlocking stitches create a robust fabric that prevents further tearing. You can play with the density by changing the spacing of your grid. A wider grid creates a more open, decorative look, while a tight grid offers maximum reinforcement.
5. Shippo Tsunagi (Seven Treasures)
Shippo Tsunagi is a gorgeous pattern of interlocking circles, representing the seven treasures or jewels of Buddhism (gold, silver, lapis lazuli, agate, pearl, coral, and crystal). The endless connection of the circles symbolizes harmony, peace, and enduring relationships. It creates a beautiful, almost floral effect when stitched.
This pattern is perfect for covering a large, irregularly shaped worn area, as the circular design can easily expand to fill any space. It adds a touch of elegance and softness to rugged denim. To make it easier, focus on stitching one complete circle at a time before moving to the next one that overlaps it. Here at the Goh Ling Yong studio, we love using this pattern to unite multiple smaller patches into one cohesive design.
6. Kakinohanazashi (Persimmon Flower)
This is another delightful hitomezashi pattern. Kakinohanazashi translates to "persimmon flower stitch" and is formed by a grid of horizontal and vertical stitches that create a repeating, plus-sign-like floral motif. It's dense, highly textured, and incredibly satisfying to stitch.
Because of its density, this pattern is fantastic for creating a thick, durable patch from a simple piece of scrap fabric. It's ideal for a worn-out seat or a threadbare knee on a child's pair of jeans. For a fun, modern look, try stitching each "flower" in a different color thread, creating a confetti-like effect across your denim repair.
7. Yabane (Arrow Feathers)
Yabane, or arrow feathers, is a pattern rich with meaning. In Japan, arrows are symbols of determination, focus, and hitting one's target. It was a popular pattern for warriors and is still used today to wish someone success. The design is a series of repeating V-shapes or chevrons.
This is a fantastic pattern for adding a sense of direction and dynamism to your mending. Use it along a seam, down the outer leg of your jeans, or on a pocket flap. The strong directional lines can also cleverly distract the eye from an awkwardly placed patch. Stitching Yabane feels purposeful, making it a great choice for a project you want to imbue with positive energy.
8. Hishi-igeta (Parallel Diamonds or Well Crib)
This elegant pattern, also known as igeta-hishi, features a network of overlapping diamonds. The name refers to the wooden frames placed around old wells in Japan. It’s a sophisticated and clean geometric design that adds a touch of classic style to any garment.
Hishi-igeta is wonderful for creating a structured, almost architectural patch. It works well on squared-off areas like back pockets or as a decorative band around a sleeve. Tip: When stitching, complete all the lines going in one diagonal direction first, and then go back and stitch the lines going in the opposite direction. This keeps your thread tension even and your diamonds sharp.
9. Uroko (Fish Scales)
A simple yet powerful pattern, Uroko consists of repeating, overlapping triangles that resemble the scales of a fish or a dragon. In Japanese folklore, scales are protective, warding off evil spirits and bringing good luck. It's one of the most ancient and fundamental patterns.
This is a great beginner-friendly pattern that can be used in countless ways. Stitch a few scattered scales over a small snag, or create a full panel of overlapping scales to cover a large hole. You can even alternate thread colors to create a shimmering, multi-toned effect. Its simplicity makes it perfect for a quick and satisfying weekend mending session.
10. Kikko (Tortoise Shell)
The Kikko pattern is based on the hexagonal shape of a tortoise's shell. The tortoise is a powerful symbol of longevity, wisdom, and good fortune in East Asian cultures. This pattern of interlocking hexagons is therefore a wish for a long and prosperous life—and a long life for your mended jeans!
This design offers exceptional strength due to its honeycomb-like structure. It's perfect for areas that need serious reinforcement, like the knees of work pants. As a personal tip from my own practice, I, Goh Ling Yong, find it helpful to draw the full hexagonal grid onto my patch fabric before I start stitching. It ensures the pattern remains uniform and the finished repair is both beautiful and incredibly durable.
11. Sayagata
Sayagata is a traditional Buddhist pattern of interlocking manji (a symbol of good fortune and eternity) that forms a mesmerizing, labyrinthine design. It's a pattern that signifies infinite wisdom and longevity. While it looks complex, it’s based on a simple repeating unit, making it a rewarding challenge.
This is a pattern for when you're ready to level up your Sashiko game. It’s a true statement piece, perfect for the entire back panel of a denim jacket or as a feature on a tote bag made from upcycled jeans. The continuous, unbroken lines make it incredibly strong. Take your time with this one, put on some music, and enjoy the meditative process of following the path of the thread.
12. Komezashi (Rice Stitch)
As its name suggests, the Komezashi pattern is inspired by the shape of rice grains, a staple food and symbol of prosperity in Japan. This hitomezashi pattern creates a grid of small crosses that resemble rice characters (米). It’s simple, charming, and highly effective.
The Rice Stitch is perfect for adding texture and strength to smaller patches or for reinforcing thinning fabric without being overwhelming. It's also a wonderfully forgiving pattern for beginners. Try it on the corner of a pocket or to mend a small hole near a belt loop. The finished texture is tactile and delightful.
13. Nowaki (Windswept Grass)
Breaking away from the rigid geometrics, Nowaki is an organic, flowing pattern that mimics grass bending in the wind. It’s a more freeform design, often stitched without a grid, relying on the stitcher's intuition. It represents resilience, flexibility, and the beauty of nature.
Use Nowaki to cover an irregular tear, allowing the stitches to flow organically around the shape of the damage. This pattern is less about perfect lines and more about capturing a feeling of movement. Don’t be afraid to let your stitches curve and vary in length. It's a wonderful way to practice letting go of perfection and embracing a more expressive style of mindful mending.
14. Amime (Netting)
The Amime pattern resembles a fishing net, creating a diamond-shaped grid. As a symbol, it represents a bountiful catch and good fortune. It's a visually light and open pattern that adds reinforcement without adding too much bulk.
This is a fantastic choice for layering. You can stitch the Amime pattern over a brightly colored patch, allowing the fabric to peek through the "net." It's great for reinforcing thinning denim where you don't need a heavy-duty patch, like on the back of the thigh or around the seat. It’s simple, quick, and effective.
15. Fundō (Counterweights)
Finally, we have Fundō, a pattern based on the shape of traditional Japanese counterweights used on scales. These distinctive, stylized dumbbell shapes are a symbol of balance, value, and commercial success. It's a bold, graphic pattern that makes a unique statement.
Use this pattern when you want your mending to be a central design feature. A row of Fundō stitched down the leg of a pair of jeans or centered on the back of a jacket looks incredibly cool and intentional. You can play with the scale, making the weights large and bold or small and subtle. It’s a confident pattern that says your repair isn't an afterthought—it's the main event.
Your Mending Journey Begins Now
Sashiko is so much more than a set of patterns; it's a philosophy in action. It teaches us that what is broken can be made whole again, not by hiding the damage, but by celebrating it. Each stitch you make is a moment of care, a small act of defiance against a throwaway culture. Your mended denim becomes a canvas, telling a story of its life and your creativity.
So, pick a pattern that speaks to you—whether it's the simple strength of Jujizunagi or the elegant flow of Seigaiha. Start small. Your stitches don't need to be perfect; they only need to be yours. Embrace the process, enjoy the quiet rhythm of the needle, and watch as you transform your well-loved jeans into a one-of-a-kind wearable masterpiece.
Which Sashiko stitch pattern are you excited to try on your next weekend project? Share your mindful-mending creations with us on social media—we would be absolutely thrilled to see how you give your denim a beautiful new chapter
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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