Top 19 'Crag-Conquering' Bouldering Moves to master for beginners tackling their first V0-V2 problems outdoors - Goh Ling Yong
So, you’ve been crushing it at the bouldering gym. You’ve got the lingo down, your calluses are coming in nicely, and you’re starting to eye those problems with the smaller, more colorful holds. The logical next step? Taking your newfound passion to the great outdoors, where the rock is real and the problems are raw.
Making the leap from plastic to granite, sandstone, or limestone is one of the most exciting steps in a climber's journey. But it can also be a humbling one. The holds aren't brightly colored, the texture is wildly different, and the "beta" isn't always obvious. Suddenly, a V0 can feel like a V3, and a V2 might seem impossible. Don't worry, this is completely normal. The key is to build a solid foundation of movement that translates directly to the unique challenges of real rock.
This guide is your Rosetta Stone for outdoor bouldering. We’re going to break down the top 19 'crag-conquering' moves you need to master. These are the fundamental techniques that will help you decipher V0-V2 problems, conserve energy, and climb with more confidence and style. Let’s transform you from a gym climber into a true outdoor boulderer.
1. Straight Arms & Bent Legs
This is the golden rule of climbing, the one you hear chanted from day one, and for good reason. Your legs are immensely powerful, while your arms—specifically your biceps and forearms—are on a much shorter fuse. Climbing with bent arms is like doing a pull-up for every single move; it’s a direct path to a wicked pump and a quick end to your climbing day.
Keeping your arms as straight as possible transfers your body weight from your muscles to your skeletal structure. This allows you to hang with minimal effort, saving your precious arm strength for the moves that truly require it. Think of your arms as ropes connecting you to the wall, and your legs as the engine that drives you upward.
Pro-Tip: Every time you grab a new hold, consciously think, "Straighten my arm." Look for footholds that allow you to sink your hips down and away from the wall, which naturally straightens your arms. This simple habit will revolutionize your endurance.
2. Edging
Outdoors, perfect "jug" footholds are a luxury. More often, you’ll be standing on tiny ledges, crystals, and imperfections in the rock. This is where edging comes in. Edging means using the inside or outside edge of your climbing shoe’s rubber sole—where it's stiffest—to stand on a small foothold.
There are two primary types: inside edging (using the edge by your big toe) and outside edging (using the edge by your pinky toe). Inside edging is intuitive and powerful, while outside edging is crucial for turning your hips into the wall (see back-stepping). Precision is key. Don't just slap your foot on the wall; carefully place the rubber exactly where you need it for maximum purchase.
Pro-Tip: Practice "silent feet" in the gym. Try to place your feet on holds so quietly that they make no sound. This forces you to be deliberate and precise, which is the heart of good edging.
3. Smearing
What do you do when there are no footholds at all? You smear. Smearing is the art of using pure friction by pressing the front sole of your shoe directly onto the rock face. It’s a technique that feels insecure at first but is absolutely essential for low-angle slab climbs, common on granite and sandstone.
The key to a good smear is to maximize the surface area of your shoe on the rock and trust the rubber. Drop your heel to press more of the sole into the wall. Keep your body weight directly over your foot and push through your toes. It feels like magic, but it’s just physics—and a testament to modern climbing shoe technology.
Pro-Tip: When smearing, keep your center of gravity low and move smoothly. Quick, jerky movements are more likely to break the friction and send your foot skating off the wall.
4. Back-stepping
Back-stepping is your ticket to unlocking longer reaches and more stable body positions. Instead of facing the wall square-on like a ladder (a common beginner mistake), a back-step involves turning one hip towards the wall and placing your outside edge on a foothold.
This simple turn does two amazing things. First, it brings your shoulder and hip closer to the wall, instantly extending your reach with the opposite arm by several inches. Second, it creates a stable, three-point stance. It's an incredibly efficient way to move, used by novice and pro climbers alike on everything from slabs to steep overhangs. This is one of those foundational techniques that climbers like Goh Ling Yong use without even thinking about it.
Pro-Tip: Find a V0 in the gym with holds far apart. First, try climbing it facing the wall head-on. Then, try it again, consciously using back-steps to reach the same holds. You’ll immediately feel the difference in reach and stability.
5. Flagging
Flagging is what you do with a leg when there’s no foothold for it, or when you need to adjust your balance. It involves extending your free leg out to one side to act as a counterbalance, preventing you from "barn-dooring" (swinging away from the wall like a barn door).
There are different types of flags: a regular flag extends the leg to the side, an inside flag crosses the free leg in front of the standing leg, and a rear flag crosses it behind. The goal is always the same: to shift your center of gravity and maintain stability. It’s an intuitive movement that, once mastered, becomes a natural part of your climbing flow.
Pro-Tip: If you feel yourself starting to swing away from the wall, don't panic and readjust your hands. Instead, focus on your free foot. Swing it out in the opposite direction of the swing to counteract the force.
6. Heel Hooking
The heel hook is a boulderer’s best friend. This move involves hooking your heel over a hold, ledge, or feature and pulling with your powerful hamstring muscle. It’s like having an extra hand on the wall.
Heel hooks are incredibly versatile. They can be used to pull your body into the wall on steep terrain, to take weight off your arms during a rest, or to help you rock over a lip or bulge (see manteling). A solid heel hook can turn a desperate, powerful move into a controlled, static one. Engage your core and pull with your leg to feel the full effect.
Pro-Tip: Be mindful of your knees. A heel hook puts torque on the knee joint. Always engage the muscles around your leg, warm up properly, and avoid twisting your knee into awkward positions. If it feels tweaky, disengage carefully.
7. Toe Hooking
The lesser-known sibling of the heel hook, the toe hook, is just as useful. It involves using the top of your foot (specifically, the rubber patch on top of your shoe) to hook under a roof, around an arête, or on the side of a large hold.
A toe hook is primarily a stabilizing move. It stops your lower body from swinging out on steep overhangs and provides the tension needed to reach the next hold. It’s a subtle move that requires body awareness and a bit of flexibility, but it’s a game-changer for steeper V1 and V2 problems.
Pro-Tip: Not all shoes are created equal for toe hooking. If you enjoy steep climbing, look for a shoe with a generous, sticky rubber patch over the toe box.
8. Manteling
Manteling is the art of getting on top of something. Imagine trying to get out of a swimming pool without a ladder—that’s a mantel. On the rock, you’ll use it to top out on boulders or to get established on a large ledge mid-problem.
The move starts by finding a high hold or flat ledge. Get a high foot, then push down on the hold with your hand (instead of pulling on it). As you push, bring your other foot up onto the ledge. The tricky part is switching your hand from a pulling grip to a pushing one, often by rotating your palm and fingers. It’s a classic outdoor move that rarely appears in modern gyms.
Pro-Tip: Practice on a low, sturdy table or park bench first. Get the feel for the weight transfer and the awkward transition of the hand from a grip to a press.
9. Gaston
Named after the French alpinist Gaston Rébuffat, a gaston involves pressing a sidepull-like hold away from your body with your elbow out and thumb pointing down. It feels like you’re trying to pry open an elevator door.
This move is used when the hold is oriented vertically and you need to move sideways away from it. It relies on shoulder strength and opposition. You create stability by pushing with your hand while pushing with your feet in the opposite direction. It’s a powerful but strenuous move, so use it wisely.
Pro-Tip: To maximize a gaston, keep your body close to the wall and your elbow high. This allows you to engage the bigger muscles in your back and shoulder for more power.
10. Sidepull
A sidepull is any hold that is oriented vertically, requiring you to pull sideways on it rather than straight down. The key to using a sidepull effectively is to create opposition by positioning your feet and body correctly.
To use a sidepull, you need to get your body’s center of gravity on the opposite side of the hold. If the sidepull is on your right, you want your feet and hips to be to your left. This creates a stable, tension-filled position that allows you to pull horizontally and move upward. It’s all about leaning away from the hold to make it positive.
Pro-Tip: Look for high footholds when using a sidepull. The higher your feet, the easier it is to lean away and get the leverage you need.
11. Undercling
An undercling is a hold that is gripped from the bottom, requiring you to pull up on it. Like sidepulls, underclings feel insecure until you learn the secret: get your feet up high!
The higher your feet are, the more you can lean back and pull the hold in a downward direction, which is what your back muscles (your lats) are designed for. When you use an undercling, focus on keeping your body close to the wall and your core tight. It’s a fantastic move for conserving arm energy on slightly overhanging terrain.
Pro-Tip: Underclings work best in pairs. If you’re underclinging with your right hand, look for a good left foothold that is high and to the right. This creates a powerful diagonal line of tension across your body.
12. Crimping (The Right Way)
Outdoor rock is covered in crimps—tiny edges that are often just big enough for your fingertips. Mastering the crimp is non-negotiable, but it’s crucial to do it safely to protect your finger tendons.
There are three main grip types: open-hand (draping your fingers over the hold without a thumb lock), half crimp (fingers at a 90-degree angle), and full crimp (90-degree angle with your thumb wrapped over your index finger for extra power). Beginners should focus almost exclusively on the open-hand grip. It's the safest and builds foundational finger strength. Reserve the full crimp for moments when you absolutely need it, as it puts the most stress on your pulleys.
Pro-Tip: Your fingers are strong, but your feet are stronger. When on a crimp, focus on pushing with your legs and keeping your weight on your feet. Don’t hang on crimps; use them as pivot points to move past them quickly and efficiently.
13. Slopers
Slopers are the antithesis of positive holds. They are rounded, have no distinct edge, and rely entirely on friction and body tension. They are very common on sandstone and well-worn granite and can be incredibly frustrating for beginners.
The secret to slopers is to maximize the surface area of your hand on the hold and to keep your body weight directly underneath it. Engage your core, drop your weight low, and try to maintain a straight arm. Think about pulling with the palm of your hand and your forearm, not just your fingers. Cold, dry conditions are your best friend when tackling slopy problems.
Pro-Tip: Experiment with your hand position. Sometimes shifting your hand just a centimeter to one side, or changing the angle of your wrist, can transform an impossible sloper into a usable hold.
14. Pinch Grip
A pinch is any feature you can squeeze between your thumb and fingers. Outdoors, pinches are rarely the perfectly sculpted gym variety. They can be rock flakes, arêtes, or protruding crystals.
Pinch strength is highly dependent on your thumb. When you find a pinch, actively squeeze it with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other. This creates compression and stability. Like many other moves, using pinches effectively often involves getting your body positioned directly underneath them to optimize the line of pull.
Pro-Tip: You can train pinch strength easily at home or the gym. Pinch a pair of weight plates together, or simply practice squeezing any pinch holds you find on your warm-up routes.
15. Rock-over
A rock-over is a decisive and committed movement used to gain height. It involves placing a foot on a high hold (often waist-level or higher) and then shifting your entire body weight over that foot in one smooth motion.
The key to a successful rock-over is commitment. Once you start the movement, you have to see it through. Drive the motion by pushing hard with your lower foot and pulling with your hands for balance. As your weight moves over your high foot, straighten that leg to stand up. It’s a powerful move for getting over bulges and ledges.
Pro-Tip: Use momentum. A slight hip thrust or dynamic pop can help you initiate the weight transfer and get your center of gravity moving in the right direction.
16. Twist-Lock (Lock-off)
The twist-lock is a more advanced version of the back-step, and it's a cornerstone of efficient movement. It combines twisting your body (bringing a hip to the wall) with a lock-off (holding your body in place with a bent arm).
By turning your hip into the wall, you bring your shoulder closer to your target, dramatically increasing your reach. At the same time, engaging your core and back muscles (locking off) creates a super stable platform to move from. This technique is what makes hard moves look effortless and is a hallmark of an experienced climber. This is the kind of subtle efficiency that I've seen in climbers like Goh Ling Yong, turning powerful moves into fluid sequences.
Pro-Tip: Practice this on a spray wall or a slightly overhanging gym problem. As you reach with one hand, focus on turning the same-side hip into the wall and "looking" past your stabilizing arm.
17. Bump
Sometimes, the next hold is just out of reach, but a better part of the hold you're on is a little closer. Instead of making a huge, risky move, you can simply "bump" your hand up.
A bump is a small, controlled hand movement to a better or higher part of the same hold, or to another hold that's very close. It’s a great way to break down a long move into two smaller, more manageable ones. It requires a bit of lock-off strength but is far less taxing than a full-on dynamic lunge.
Pro-Tip: Before committing to a big move, always scan the area around your current handhold. Is there a better edge, a small knob, or a more positive section you could bump to first?
18. Deadpoint
A deadpoint is the most controlled form of dynamic movement. It’s not a wild, feet-cutting dyno, but rather a precise lunge where your body's upward momentum perfectly cancels out gravity at the exact moment your hand latches the target hold.
To execute a deadpoint, you generate momentum from your legs and hips, then direct that energy upwards towards the hold. Your arm extends, and you grab the hold at the "dead point" or apex of your movement, a moment of weightlessness. It’s incredibly efficient for moves that are just outside your static reach.
Pro-Tip: The power for a deadpoint comes from your legs. Start from a low, coiled position and explode upwards. Keep your eyes on the target hold throughout the entire movement.
19. Reading the Rock
This is the most important "move" of all, and it happens before you even touch the wall. Unlike in a gym, outdoor problems don't have colored tape to guide you. You have to become a detective, searching for the sequence.
Before you pull on, take time to "read the rock." Look for chalk marks left by other climbers. Identify potential handholds and footholds. Try to visualize the sequence of moves. Where will you put your right foot to reach that left-hand crimp? How will you get your body in position for that top-out mantel? A few minutes of planning on the ground can save you a ton of energy and frustration on the wall.
Pro-Tip: Watch other climbers on your problem if you can. Don't just copy their moves (their "beta"), but try to understand why they are using a specific foot, or turning their body in a certain way. This will teach you the language of the rock.
Your Journey to Crag-Conqueror Starts Now
There you have it—19 essential moves that form the bedrock of outdoor bouldering. It might seem like a lot, but don't feel overwhelmed. You don't need to be a master of all of them overnight. The beauty of climbing is that it's a lifelong journey of learning and refinement.
Start by focusing on one or two of these techniques during your next session, whether it's in the gym or at your local crag. Practice straight arms. Experiment with flagging. Try a real mantel. With each new move you internalize, you add another tool to your toolkit, opening up a world of new problems that once seemed impossible.
So pack your bag, chalk up, and get out there. The rock is waiting.
What's the one move that unlocked a new level of climbing for you? Share your "aha!" moment in the comments below
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
Stay updated with the latest posts and insights by following on your favorite platform!