Top 20 'Grip-Strength-Multiplying' Hangboard Routines to train for at home for Sending Harder Routes This Climbing Season
So, you’re staring down your project. You’ve got the beta dialed, the moves are wired, but that one, single, miserable crimp spits you off every time. It feels less like a hold and more like a cruel joke carved into the wall. Sound familiar? We've all been there. The feeling of your body being strong enough, but your fingers just giving out, is one of the most frustrating plateaus in climbing.
The good news is that the solution is probably hanging in your doorway right now: the hangboard. This simple piece of wood or resin is the single most effective tool for forging the kind of grip strength that turns impossible holds into stepping stones. It’s not just about hanging on longer; it’s about building resilient, powerful fingers that can lock down on anything the route throws at you. Forget "hope-and-pray" beta; we're talking about building undeniable strength.
But which routine is right for you? The internet is a firehose of information, with everyone from pro climbers to weekend warriors touting their "secret" protocol. It can be overwhelming. That’s why we’ve compiled the ultimate list: 20 distinct, targeted hangboard routines designed for every level and every goal. Whether you’re looking to build a base, crush slopers, or develop one-arm power, your perfect workout is in this list. Let's get to work and make this your strongest climbing season yet.
1. The Foundational Hang
Best for: Beginners or climbers returning from a break.
This is where it all starts. Before you dive into complex repeater sets or weighted hangs, you need to build a solid foundation. The Foundational Hang is all about teaching your fingers, tendons, and supporting muscles how to handle sustained tension in a safe, controlled manner. The goal isn't failure; it's consistency and conditioning.
Think of it as learning to walk before you run. You'll use the most comfortable four-finger edge on your board (often called the "jug" or a deep 25-30mm edge) and focus on perfect form. This means engaging your shoulders, pulling them down and back to protect your joints, and maintaining a slight bend in your elbows. You are building the crucial mind-muscle connection and tendon resilience that will support all future gains.
- Example Protocol:
- Hang: 15-30 seconds
- Rest: 2-3 minutes
- Sets: 3-5
- Tip: If you can't hang for 15 seconds, use a resistance band or pulley system to remove some body weight. If 30 seconds is easy, it's time to move to a slightly smaller edge.
2. Minimum Edge Protocol
Best for: Building raw finger strength and tracking progress.
Popularized by coaches like Eva Lopez, the Minimum Edge protocol is a simple yet brutally effective way to build maximal strength. The concept is straightforward: find the smallest edge you can hang from for a specific duration (usually 10-12 seconds). That's your "minimum edge." Your training then revolves around increasing the time on that edge or moving to an even smaller one.
This method is fantastic because it provides clear, measurable progress. Instead of just adding weight, you're challenging your fingers to adapt to more difficult holds, which translates directly to performance on the rock. It’s a pure test of finger recruitment and forces your nervous system to get incredibly efficient.
- Example Protocol:
- Goal Hang Time: 12 seconds
- Workout: Find the smallest edge you can hold for exactly 12 seconds with perfect form. Perform 3-5 hangs on this edge, with 3-5 minutes of rest in between.
- Progression: Once you can hang for 15+ seconds, it’s time to find a new, smaller "minimum edge."
3. Classic Repeaters (7/3)
Best for: Power endurance and hypertrophy.
This is the bread and butter of hangboard training for a reason. The 7-second-on, 3-second-off protocol is a killer workout for building power endurance—the ability to do hard moves over and over again. It mimics the rhythm of a tough boulder problem or the crux sequence of a sport route, training your forearms to recover quickly between efforts.
By working in this short, intense burst format, you stimulate muscle fiber hypertrophy (growth) and improve your body's ability to shuttle energy to your forearms. It's a painful but incredibly productive way to train. I was discussing this with Goh Ling Yong recently, and we agreed that for most climbers stuck in the intermediate grades, this type of power endurance is often the biggest limiting factor.
- Example Protocol:
- One Set: 6 reps of (7 seconds hanging, 3 seconds resting).
- Rest between sets: 2-3 minutes.
- Total Sets: 3-5, performed on different grip types (e.g., 4-finger crimp, 3-finger pocket, sloper).
4. Max Hangs (10-Second Protocol)
Best for: Developing maximum neurological strength.
If you want to make small holds feel big, Max Hangs are your answer. Unlike repeaters, this protocol is not about endurance; it's about recruiting the maximum number of muscle fibers for a short, all-out effort. The goal is to hang for about 10 seconds on a hold that is so challenging you can't possibly hold it for more than 12-13 seconds.
This type of training primarily improves neural recruitment. You're teaching your brain to send a stronger, more coordinated signal to your forearm muscles. The result isn't necessarily bigger muscles, but much, much stronger ones. This is the key to unlocking the ability to latch onto tiny, desperate holds.
- Example Protocol:
- Hang: 10 seconds
- Rest: 3-5 minutes (full recovery is crucial!)
- Sets: 3-5 on a specific grip type.
- Tip: Choose 2-3 different grip types for your workout. For example, half-crimp on a 20mm edge, open-hand on a 30-degree sloper, and a 2-finger pocket.
5. Weighted Max Hangs
Best for: Advanced climbers breaking through strength plateaus.
Once you can comfortably complete Max Hangs on your board's smallest edges, the next frontier is adding weight. This is how you continue to apply the principle of progressive overload, ensuring your fingers never stop adapting and getting stronger. A harness with a weight plate, a weight vest, or even a backpack filled with books can work.
The key here is to add weight incrementally and with perfect form. Don't sacrifice shoulder engagement or a proper half-crimp position just to add another 5kg. Start with a small amount of weight (2.5-5kg) and build slowly. This is an advanced technique that puts a lot of stress on your tendons, so listen to your body.
- Example Protocol:
- Hold: A comfortable edge (18-25mm) that you can hang easily.
- Weight: Add enough weight so a 10-second hang feels near-maximal.
- Hang: 10 seconds
- Rest: 3-5 minutes
- Sets: 3-5
6. One-Arm Hangs (and Progressions)
Best for: Elite unilateral strength and lock-off power.
The one-arm hang is a benchmark of climbing strength. It requires not just immense finger power, but also incredible shoulder stability and body tension. Training for it, even if you can't do one yet, will have a massive carryover to your climbing, making dynamic moves to poor holds feel much more controlled.
Most people can't just jump into a one-arm hang. The progression is key. Start with a pulley system or resistance bands to remove a significant amount of weight. As you get stronger, reduce the assistance. You can also use your other hand to assist by holding your wrist or a lower hold on the hangboard (an "offset hang").
- Example Progression:
- Two-Arm Hangs: On a very small edge.
- Weighted Two-Arm Hangs: Build up the weight.
- One-Arm Hangs with Pulley/Band: Start by removing 20kg and slowly decrease the assistance.
- One-Arm Scapular Shrugs: Hang with one arm and practice engaging and relaxing your shoulder.
7. Density Hangs
Best for: Building base endurance and mental toughness.
Density training is about packing as much work as possible into a given time frame. For hangboarding, this translates to a long, continuous set where you move between different grips with minimal to no rest. It's a fantastic way to build a huge base of endurance and condition your skin and tendons for long climbing days.
A typical density set might last anywhere from 3 to 7 minutes. You'll spend a set amount of time on one grip, then immediately switch to another, then another, cycling through all the holds on your board. This teaches your body to recover while under tension and is an incredible mental challenge.
- Example Protocol (4-Minute Block):
- 45s on jugs
- 15s rest
- 45s on 30mm edge
- 15s rest
- 45s on slopers
- 15s rest
- 45s on 20mm edge
- Rest 5-8 minutes and repeat for 2-3 blocks.
8. Recruitment Pulls
Best for: Power and contact strength.
This isn't a hanging exercise, but a pulling one. Recruitment pulls are short, explosive pull-ups on your worst holds. The goal isn't to complete a full pull-up, but to initiate the movement with as much force as possible, pulling your body up just an inch or two before dropping back down.
This exercise trains your central nervous system to fire all your muscle fibers instantly—the definition of contact strength. It’s what allows you to stick a dynamic move to a terrible hold. You're teaching your fingers to grab and immediately generate maximum force.
- Example Protocol:
- Hold: A small edge or sloper you can barely hang.
- Reps: 3-5 explosive "pulls" of 1-2 seconds each.
- Rest: 10-15 seconds between reps.
- Sets: 3-5, with 3 minutes rest between sets.
9. Board Taps / Slaps
Best for: Dynamic accuracy and contact strength.
Another fantastic drill for contact strength, board taps involve hanging from a good hold (like a jug) with one hand and dynamically "tapping" or "slapping" a smaller hold with the other. You alternate hands, focusing on speed, precision, and hitting the hold with an engaged, crimping hand shape.
This simulates the act of latching a hold dynamically. It trains the coordination between your eyes, your core, and your fingers to hit a target and immediately apply tension. Start with big holds and progress to smaller and smaller targets.
- Example Protocol:
- Duration: 30-60 seconds of continuous tapping.
- Rest: 2 minutes.
- Sets: 3-5.
- Tip: Try to make as little noise as possible. A quiet tap means you're controlling the movement and placing your fingers accurately, not just slapping the wood.
10. Pocket Progressions
Best for: Safely building strength in mono, two-finger, and three-finger pockets.
Pocket training is scary for many climbers, and for good reason—it’s a high-risk area for pulley injuries. However, avoiding it entirely leaves a massive gap in your strength. The key is to approach it systematically and safely, always favoring an open-hand grip and never, ever shock-loading a pocket you aren't prepared for.
Start with three-finger pockets, as they are the safest. Progress by adding weight slowly. Only move to two-finger pockets when your three-finger strength is solid. Monos should be reserved for very advanced climbers and trained with extreme caution, often with weight removed via a pulley.
- Example Protocol (Two-Finger Pockets):
- Grip: Middle and ring finger (strongest combination).
- Protocol: Use the Max Hang protocol (10-second hangs, 3-5 min rest).
- Important: Start with bodyweight. Only add weight if a 10-second hang is easy and completely pain-free. If you feel any sharp pain, stop immediately.
11. Sloper Strength Builders
Best for: Open-hand strength and compression.
Slopers are the bane of many crimp-dominant climbers. Training them requires a different kind of strength, one that relies on palm-pressure, wrist stability, and full-arm tension. Your hangboard's slopers are the perfect place to build this.
Focus on "cupping" the hold with as much of your hand as possible. Keep your wrist straight or slightly extended, and engage your core to keep your body from swinging. The feeling you're aiming for is compression—squeezing the hold between your fingers and the palm of your hand.
- Example Protocol:
- Use the Max Hang protocol (10s hangs) or Repeaters (7/3).
- Tip: Experiment with body position. Hanging directly below the hold is often harder than positioning your body slightly to one side, which can improve your leverage.
12. Pinch Block Power
Best for: Thumb strength, a critical and often-neglected component of grip.
Your hangboard can't train pinches, but a simple, DIY pinch block can. This is a crucial accessory for any serious climber. Pinch strength is what helps you latch arêtes, grab tufas, and control big, blocky holds.
Create a pinch block by screwing an eyelet into a block of wood. You can then attach weights and perform timed lifts or holds. Focus on squeezing with your thumb and keeping your wrist straight. Train different widths to simulate the variety of pinches you find on the wall.
- Example Protocol:
- Lift and Hold: Lift the heaviest weight you can and hold it for 10 seconds.
- Rest: 3 minutes.
- Sets: 3-5 per hand.
13. The "Frenchie" Board Workout
Best for: Lock-off strength and power endurance.
This is a classic climbing exercise adapted for the hangboard. It combines a pull-up with isometric holds at different positions, building incredible lock-off strength. This is the power you need to hold your body in place while you reach for the next hold.
Using the jugs or biggest slopers on your board, perform a pull-up. Pause for 3-5 seconds at the top. Lower halfway (90-degree arm bend) and pause again for 3-5 seconds. Lower to a near-full extension (120-degree arm bend) and pause again for 3-5 seconds. That’s one rep.
- Example Protocol:
- Reps: 3-5
- Rest: 3-4 minutes between sets.
- Sets: 3
- Warning: This is a very advanced and strenuous workout.
14. Pyramid Protocols
Best for: Varying the training stimulus and building endurance.
A pyramid protocol involves systematically increasing and then decreasing a variable—either hang time or weight—within a single set. This is a great way to push your limits and build a unique form of endurance, forcing your muscles to adapt to a constantly changing load.
For example, a time-based pyramid could look like: Hang 5s, rest 5s. Hang 10s, rest 10s. Hang 15s, rest 15s. Hang 10s, rest 10s. Hang 5s, rest 5s. This entire sequence is one set. It’s a long, grinding effort that builds incredible resistance to fatigue.
- Example Protocol (Weight-Based):
- Hang 10s (Bodyweight)
- Rest 2 min
- Hang 10s (+5kg)
- Rest 3 min
- Hang 10s (+10kg)
- Rest 3 min
- Hang 10s (+5kg)
- Rest 2 min
- Hang 10s (Bodyweight)
15. Offset Hangs
Best for: Simulating hard moves and training unilateral strength.
Offset hangs involve hanging with your hands on two different holds—typically one good and one bad. This forces the hand on the worse hold to work much harder, acting as a stepping stone toward one-arm strength.
It also brilliantly simulates real climbing, where your hands are rarely on perfectly matched holds. You can do this with different size edges (one hand on 25mm, one on 15mm) or different grip types (one on a jug, one on a sloper). It trains your body to balance and create tension asymmetrically.
- Example Protocol:
- Setup: Right hand on a 15mm edge, left hand on a jug.
- Hang: 10-15 seconds.
- Rest: 2 minutes.
- Switch Hands and repeat.
- Sets: 3 per side.
16. Core-Integrated Hangs
Best for: Building full-body tension and a rock-solid core.
Your fingers might be the point of contact, but your core is what channels power through your entire body. Training your core while hangboarding is a highly efficient way to build the body tension needed for steep climbing.
While hanging from a good hold (jugs or deep edges), perform leg raises, L-sits, or front lever progressions. The goal is to keep your body absolutely tight and still, preventing any swinging. This makes the hang significantly harder and builds a core of steel. Just like Goh Ling Yong's philosophy on integrating different fitness domains, this combines finger training with gymnastics for a powerful effect.
- Example Protocol:
- Hang from jugs and hold an L-sit for as long as possible.
- Rest 2-3 minutes.
- Sets: 3-5.
17. Velocity Hangs (Drop-ins)
Best for: Training finger resilience and load absorption.
This is an advanced plyometric exercise. It involves starting with your hands just above the hangboard and dropping a few inches to catch the hold. This trains your fingers and tendons to absorb force rapidly, which is essential for catching dynamic moves (dynos) or dealing with barn-door swings.
Start with a very small drop and on a very good hold. The goal is to catch the hold silently and with perfect form, immediately engaging your shoulders. This can be high-risk, so it should only be attempted by experienced climbers with a solid strength base.
- Example Protocol:
- Hold: A deep, incut 25-30mm edge.
- Drop: Start from 1-2 inches above the hold.
- Reps: 3-5 controlled drops.
- Rest: 3 minutes.
- Sets: 3.
18. Isometric Lock-Offs
Best for: Static lock-off strength at specific arm angles.
Similar to Frenchies but without the pull-up component, isometric lock-offs involve simply holding a locked-off position for time. This is less fatiguing than a full Frenchie and allows you to target weaknesses at specific arm angles (e.g., 90 degrees or fully locked off).
Use a chair or box to get into position without wasting energy. Step off and hold the position with perfect form for as long as you can. This is great for building the static strength needed to make a slow, controlled reach on an overhang.
- Example Protocol:
- Position: 90-degree lock-off on jugs or slopers.
- Hold: 10-20 seconds.
- Rest: 2-3 minutes.
- Sets: 3-5.
19. "No-Hang" Device Training
Best for: Targeted, measurable strength building and rehab.
"No-hangs" involve using a portable device like a Tension Block or a similar product, attached to a weight. You're not hanging your body; you're just lifting the weight off the ground with a specific grip. This allows for incredibly precise and measurable training.
This method is fantastic because it isolates the finger flexors completely and is very low-impact on your shoulders and elbows. It’s also a powerful tool for rehabilitation, as you can work with extremely light weights to promote blood flow and healing without the stress of full-bodyweight hanging.
- Example Protocol:
- Grip: 4-finger half crimp on the device.
- Lift and Hold: Find a weight you can hold for 10 seconds.
- Rest: 3 minutes.
- Sets: 3-5.
20. Restorative Hangs (Tendon Glides)
Best for: Active recovery, blood flow, and tendon health.
Not every hangboard session has to be a brutal workout. Restorative hangs are a critical part of a sustainable training plan. The goal is to promote blood flow to the fingers, which aids in recovery and can help manage minor aches and pains.
This involves very light, long-duration hangs. Use a pulley or strong resistance bands to remove a large percentage of your body weight (50% or more). Hang on large, open-handed holds for 30-60 seconds. There should be no "pump" or pain; it should feel therapeutic. This is an excellent thing to do on a rest day or as a cool-down after a hard session.
- Example Protocol:
- Load: 30-50% of your bodyweight.
- Hold: Open-handed grip on a jug or large edge.
- Duration: 45 seconds on, 15 seconds off.
- Sets: 5-10 minutes total.
Your Path to Stronger Fingers
There you have it—20 different ways to turn your hangboard from a piece of wood into a grip-strength-multiplying machine. Remember, the best routine is the one that you can perform consistently, safely, and that aligns with your current climbing goals. Don't just pick the hardest one; pick the smartest one for you right now.
The most important advice is to listen to your body. Your fingers are comprised of a complex system of pulleys and tendons that take much longer to strengthen than muscles. Rest is not a sign of weakness; it's a non-negotiable part of getting stronger. Warm up thoroughly before every session, and don't be afraid to back off if you feel any sharp or unusual pain.
Now, it's time to get to work. Pick a protocol, be consistent for a 4-6 week cycle, and watch as those "impossible" holds on your project start to feel like jugs.
Which of these routines are you most excited to try? Do you have a favorite protocol that we missed? Drop a comment below and let's talk training!
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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