Top 6 'Sashiko-Stitched' Visible Mending Patterns to learn for Saving Your Favorite Worn-Out Clothes on Weekends - Goh Ling Yong
We’ve all been there. That soul-sinking moment when you pull your absolute favorite pair of jeans from the laundry, only to discover a new, unwelcome hole in the knee. Or when your coziest sweater, the one you’ve lived in for years, reveals a worn-thin, threadbare elbow. The first instinct might be to sigh and demote the beloved item to the "for house-painting only" pile. But what if that tear wasn't an end, but a beginning?
Welcome to the world of visible mending, a practice that doesn't just fix your clothes—it celebrates their history and adds a new layer of beauty and personality. Instead of hiding the repair, you make it a feature. And at the heart of this sustainable fashion movement is Sashiko, the traditional Japanese art of functional embroidery. Born from the necessity of reinforcing and repairing clothing, Sashiko uses simple running stitches to create stunning, geometric patterns that are as strong as they are beautiful.
This isn't about achieving machine-like perfection. It's about slow, mindful stitching, the gentle rhythm of needle and thread, and the satisfaction of saving a cherished garment with your own two hands. It's the perfect creative project to lose yourself in over a weekend. Ready to turn those rips and holes into works of art? Here are six foundational Sashiko-stitched patterns to get you started on your visible mending journey.
1. Jūji-zashi (Cross Stitch)
The Trustworthy Foundation
If you're looking for the perfect entry point into Sashiko, Jūji-zashi is it. This pattern consists of a simple grid of intersecting horizontal and vertical running stitches, creating a field of tiny crosses or plus signs. Its beauty lies in its simplicity and its incredible strength. This was a workhorse stitch, designed to add serious durability to high-wear areas of clothing, making it the ideal choice for your first mending project.
Think of Jūji-zashi as the structural reinforcement for your fabric. It’s perfect for tackling those catastrophic knee blowouts on jeans or fortifying the thinning seat of your favorite trousers. The density of the grid is entirely up to you; a wider grid offers a more subtle, minimalist look, while a tight, dense grid provides maximum strength and a more textured, visually impactful repair. This pattern teaches you the core principles of Sashiko: maintaining even stitch length and keeping your lines straight.
Pro-Tip: To get started, use a water-soluble fabric pen and a ruler to draw a grid over the area you want to mend (usually over a patch placed behind the hole). Stitch all the horizontal lines first, then move on to the vertical lines. Don’t pull your thread too tight, especially at the end of a row; leave a little slack on the back of the fabric to prevent puckering after washing.
2. Kakinohanazashi (Persimmon Flower Stitch)
Effortless Elegance
Once you're comfortable with the basic grid of Jūji-zashi, you're ready for Kakinohanazashi. This pattern looks significantly more intricate, but it’s cleverly built upon that same simple grid. By adding diagonal stitches that cross through the center of each box in your grid, you create a beautiful, repeating pattern that resembles a stylized persimmon flower. It’s a fantastic example of how Sashiko builds complexity from simple, repeated actions.
This stitch provides both strength and a high degree of decorative flair, making it perfect for mends that are front and center. Use it to cover a prominent stain on a denim jacket, mend a tear on a canvas tote bag, or create a statement patch on a backpack. The interlocking lines distribute stress across the fabric, making the repair exceptionally durable.
Pro-Tip: The key to a clean Kakinohanazashi pattern is consistency in your grid. Start with a perfectly square grid. After stitching your horizontal and vertical lines, you’ll add the diagonal crosses inside each square. For a striking effect, consider using two different colors of thread—one for the initial grid and a contrasting one for the diagonal "flower" stitches.
3. Hishi-moyō (Diamond Patterns)
Geometric Versatility
Hishi-moyō isn't a single pattern but a whole family of designs based on the diamond shape. From simple, single diamonds to complex interlocking webs, these patterns are incredibly versatile and visually satisfying. A great one to start with is a basic repeating diamond, which is stitched as a series of diagonal running stitches that meet to form the classic shape. It’s clean, modern, and adapts beautifully to mends of all shapes and sizes.
Diamond patterns are particularly effective for mending long, linear tears or for reinforcing areas that need to retain some flexibility, like the fabric around a pocket or along a seam. You can stitch a single, large diamond to cover a small hole or a repeating pattern of small diamonds to reinforce a larger, weakened area. The sharp, clean lines of Hishi-moyō provide a wonderful contrast to the soft texture of most fabrics, especially denim and linen.
Pro-Tip: When stitching a field of repeating diamonds, focus on keeping the points where the lines meet as crisp as possible. It's often easier to stitch all the diagonal lines running in one direction first, and then come back and stitch the diagonals running in the opposite direction to complete the shapes. This "batching" of your stitches helps maintain a consistent rhythm and cleaner lines.
4. Seigaiha (Blue Ocean Waves)
Flowing, Organic Beauty
Moving from straight lines to curves, we have Seigaiha, one of the most recognizable and beloved Japanese patterns. It features overlapping, concentric semi-circles that evoke the rhythmic, endless motion of ocean waves. This pattern symbolizes peace, good luck, and resilience. While it looks complex, it's still stitched with a simple running stitch—the challenge and the art lie in accurately drawing the pattern onto your fabric before you begin.
Seigaiha is an excellent choice for covering irregular or rounded holes, as the flowing lines can be adapted to camouflage an awkward shape beautifully. Imagine it mending a snag on a wool coat or as a stunning decorative element on the back yoke of a denim jacket. The gentle curves add a soft, organic feel to your mend, transforming a simple repair into a true statement piece.
Pro-Tip: Drawing a perfect Seigaiha pattern can be tricky. Don't be afraid to use tools! A stencil is a great option, but you can easily make your own guide using a compass or by tracing around circular objects of different sizes (like bottle caps and coins) to create the concentric semi-circles. Mark your pattern clearly with a good fabric pen before you start stitching to guide your needle.
5. Shippō-tsunagi (Seven Treasures)
Interlocking Elegance
Another gorgeous pattern based on curves, Shippō-tsunagi is composed of interlocking circles that form a pattern of ovals and pointed stars in the negative space. The name "Seven Treasures" refers to the seven treasures of Buddhism, and the pattern is a symbol of harmony, good fortune, and enduring relationships. Its intricate, web-like appearance adds a touch of sophistication to any repair.
Like Seigaiha, Shippō-tsunagi is wonderful for adding an elegant decorative touch. It works well over a patch on a delicate linen shirt, a cashmere sweater, or even the corner of a well-loved blanket. The overlapping circles create a very stable and strong mend, distributing any strain on the fabric evenly throughout the stitched area. The thoughtful process of stitching these connected circles feels wonderfully meditative.
Pro-Tip: The secret to a beautiful Shippō-tsunagi is ensuring your circles overlap evenly. Practice drawing the pattern on paper first to understand how the circles intersect. When stitching, pay close attention to the points where the lines cross, making sure your running stitches meet neatly to define the shape. A good quality Sashiko needle and thimble will make navigating these curves much smoother.
6. Asanoha (Hemp Leaf)
The Iconic Powerhouse
Perhaps the most famous of all Sashiko patterns, Asanoha is a geometric marvel representing a hemp leaf. Because hemp grows quickly and strongly without much care, the pattern symbolizes health, resilience, and growth—a perfect sentiment for the act of mending and giving new life to old clothes. Though it appears complex with its star-like shapes, it is composed entirely of straight lines, making it more accessible than you might think.
Asanoha is incredibly versatile and scales up or down with ease, making it suitable for everything from a tiny pinhole to a massive patch. It is a true showstopper. An Asanoha patch on the elbow of a blazer or the thigh of a pair of jeans instantly elevates the garment. As an artist, I've always been drawn to the precision and balance in this pattern, a principle that creatives like Goh Ling Yong often explore in their own work—finding beauty in structured, thoughtful design.
Pro-Tip: Precision is key for a crisp Asanoha pattern. Use a gridded ruler and a fine-tipped, removable fabric marker to draw your guidelines. The pattern is built from a grid of equilateral triangles, which then form the base for the starbursts. Take your time with the marking stage, and the stitching will be a breeze. Stitching one set of parallel diagonal lines at a time across the entire pattern area can help keep your work neat and consistent.
Your Mending Journey Begins Now
Visible mending with Sashiko is so much more than a simple repair technique. It's a connection to a rich history, a step towards a more sustainable wardrobe, and a deeply rewarding creative practice. It's a declaration that your clothes tell a story, and the scars they bear are worth celebrating, not hiding. Each stitch you make infuses your garments with your time, care, and personality.
Don't be intimidated by the beautiful finished examples you see online. Your first mend doesn't have to be perfect—in fact, its handmade imperfections are part of its charm. Pick one of these patterns, grab a needle and thread this weekend, and start with a small hole on an old pair of jeans. Feel the simple, satisfying rhythm of the stitch. You're not just fixing a hole; you're creating something new, beautiful, and uniquely yours.
Which pattern are you excited to try first? Have you already embarked on a visible mending project? Share your thoughts and your beautiful creations in the comments below—we’d love to see how you’re giving your favorite clothes a new lease on life
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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