Top 6 'Story-in-a-Spoonful' Heirloom Desserts to eat in Bangkok's Old Town Shophouses - Goh Ling Yong
Bangkok is a city of exhilarating contrasts. Gleaming skyscrapers cast long shadows over ancient temples, and the whisper of a skytrain fades into the sizzle of a street-side wok. But to truly understand its soul, you must wander into the labyrinthine alleys of its Old Town. Here, in the districts of Yaowarat, Phra Nakhon, and Talat Noi, time doesn't just slow down; it folds back on itself within the walls of beautifully weathered shophouses.
These aren't just buildings; they are living museums, their pastel-hued facades holding generations of stories. And for me, the most delicious of these stories are told not in words, but in spoonfuls of khanom thai boran—heirloom Thai desserts. These aren't the flashy, Instagram-driven sweets of modern cafes. They are recipes whispered down from grandmothers to mothers to daughters, crafted with time-honoured techniques and infused with the very essence of Thai culture, history, and a little bit of magic.
On my countless trips exploring these charming lanes, something I, Goh Ling Yong, have come to cherish is the discovery of these edible heirlooms. Each bite is a connection to the past, a "story-in-a-spoonful" that speaks of royal courts, Portuguese traders, and the simple, comforting joys of family. So, grab a seat, and let me take you on a journey to six of the most unforgettable heirloom desserts you can find tucked away in Bangkok's Old Town shophouses.
1. Bua Loy Nam Khing: A Fiery, Comforting Embrace
Bua Loy Nam Khing (บัวลอยน้ำขิง), which translates to "floating lotus in ginger water," is the ultimate comfort food, especially on a rainy Bangkok evening. Forget cloyingly sweet desserts; this is a sophisticated dance of textures and tastes. Imagine small, chewy glutinous rice balls, often filled with a sweet and nutty black sesame paste, floating in a broth that is simultaneously sweet, deeply warming, and packed with a spicy kick from old, aromatic ginger.
The magic of this dessert lies in its perfect balance. The shophouses that specialize in it have been perfecting their ginger soup for decades, simmering it for hours to extract every ounce of flavour without it becoming bitter. The bua loy themselves are a testament to craftsmanship—each one perfectly round, with a delightful chewiness that gives way to the rich, fragrant sesame filling. It’s a dish with strong Chinese heritage, a staple in Yaowarat (Bangkok's Chinatown), and a beautiful example of culinary integration.
- Where to Find It & Pro Tip: Head to the bustling streets of Yaowarat after sundown. You'll find legendary street-side shophouses with bubbling vats of ginger soup. My tip: Don't be afraid to ask for "phet phet" (extra spicy) if you really love the heat of the ginger. For a truly local experience, pair it with patongo (Thai-style fried dough sticks) for dipping. The crunchy, savory dough is the perfect counterpoint to the sweet, fiery soup.
2. Khanom Bueang Boran: The Ancestor of the Crispy Crepe
You’ve likely seen the modern version of Khanom Bueang—small, taco-shaped crepes filled with a mountain of meringue-like cream. But in the quiet corners of the Old Town, you can still find its ancestor: Khanom Bueang Boran (ขนมเบื้องโบราณ). This "ancient" version is a different beast altogether, offering a more nuanced and savoury experience that tells a story of a time before refined sugar dominated the palate.
The crepe itself is made from a batter of rice flour and mung bean flour, spread thinly on a griddle until impossibly crisp. Instead of fluffy cream, the filling is a sparse but intensely flavourful mix. The sweet version (khanom bueang wan) uses shredded coconut cooked with palm sugar and a sprinkle of golden foi thong (sweet egg yolk threads). The star, however, is the savoury version (khanom bueang kem), which features a salty, umami-rich paste of shrimp and coconut, topped with chopped coriander and white pepper. The combination of the crispy shell with the sweet or savoury filling is utterly addictive.
- Look for the Details: The best vendors are often elderly artisans who have been mastering this single dish for over 50 years. Look for the small, unassuming carts or open-front shophouses, often near temples or old markets like Nang Loeng Market. Pro Tip: Order a mix of both sweet and savoury to appreciate the full spectrum of flavours. Eating them fresh off the griddle, while they're still warm and shatteringly crisp, is non-negotiable.
3. I-Tim Kati Boran: The Purest Coconut Dream
Before the advent of dairy-based ice cream in Thailand, there was I-Tim Kati Boran (ไอศกรีมกะทิโบราณ), or traditional coconut ice cream. Made simply from fresh coconut cream, coconut water, and a touch of sugar, its beauty lies in its purity. Served from large metal canisters, often churned by hand, this ice cream isn't overly sweet. Instead, it boasts a clean, intensely floral coconut flavour and a texture that is slightly icy and grainy in the most delightful way.
What elevates this simple scoop into a story is the incredible array of toppings, most of which are uniquely Thai. Forget chocolate sprinkles; here you'll find sticky rice, candied palm seeds (look chit), boiled corn, roasted peanuts, and sweetened kidney beans. This tradition harks back to a time when ice cream was a rare luxury, and the toppings were added to make the treat more substantial and interesting. Each spoonful becomes a treasure hunt of contrasting textures: the creamy ice cream, the chewy sticky rice, and the crunchy peanuts.
- A Personal Favourite: There's a legendary, multi-generational shophouse called Nuttaporn Ice Cream, tucked away in the Phraeng Phuthon area, that I, Goh Ling Yong, always make a pilgrimage to. It’s a tiny spot that feels unchanged by time. Pro Tip: Be adventurous with your toppings! My go-to combination is sticky rice for chewiness and roasted peanuts for a salty, crunchy contrast. It’s a flavour profile that is uniquely and wonderfully Southeast Asian.
4. Sankaya Fak Thong: A Golden Treasure in a Pumpkin Shell
Visually stunning and deeply comforting, Sankaya Fak Thong (สังขยาฟักทอง) is a dessert that feels like a warm hug. It's a whole, small pumpkin that has been hollowed out, filled with a silky coconut milk and egg custard (the sankaya), and then steamed until the pumpkin is tender and the custard is perfectly set. It’s then served in wedges, showcasing a beautiful cross-section of vibrant orange flesh and pale, creamy custard.
The story of this dessert is one of rustic elegance and resourcefulness, using the natural sweetness of the pumpkin as both a vessel and a key ingredient. The flavour is sublime—the earthy sweetness of the squash melts into the rich, fragrant custard, which is often scented with pandan leaf. It’s not overly sugary, allowing the natural flavours to shine. Finding a shophouse that makes this well is like finding gold; it requires patience and a delicate touch to steam it perfectly without the pumpkin becoming mushy or the custard breaking.
- How to Spot the Best: The best versions use smaller, knobblier varieties of pumpkin, which have a richer flavour and denser texture. When you see it displayed whole in a glass cabinet, you know you’re in the right place. Pro Tip: This dessert is surprisingly filling. It’s best enjoyed as an afternoon treat with a cup of hot Chinese tea to cut through the richness of the custard.
5. The "Golden Trio": Thong Yip, Thong Yot & Foi Thong
Step into a traditional khanom thai shophouse, and you'll be greeted by a dazzling display of golden-hued sweets. These are the famous egg-yolk-based desserts, a legacy of Portuguese traders who introduced the use of egg yolks in pastry-making to the royal court of Ayutthaya in the 17th century. The "golden trio"—Thong Yip (ทองหยิบ), Thong Yot (ทองหยอด), and Foi Thong (ฝอยทอง)—are the most iconic.
- Thong Yip ("Pinched Gold") is made by drizzling egg yolk into simmering jasmine-scented syrup and then artfully pinching it into the shape of a five-pointed flower.
- Thong Yot ("Golden Drops") are similar but are shaped into delicate teardrops.
- Foi Thong ("Golden Threads") is perhaps the most impressive, where the egg yolk is drizzled through a tiny funnel to create a cascade of fine, silk-like threads.
These desserts are intensely sweet, rich, and a true labour of love. Their golden colour and auspicious names make them essential for Thai ceremonies and celebrations, symbolizing wealth and prosperity. Each piece is a bite of history, a direct link to the fusion of cultures that shaped the Kingdom of Siam.
- Savouring the Sweetness: These are not desserts to be eaten in large quantities. They are meant to be savoured one or two pieces at a time. Pro Tip: Seek out a family-run shophouse in the Banglamphu area that specializes in these royal desserts. The quality of the duck egg yolks they use makes a world of difference in the richness and flavour. Enjoy them with a bitter, unsweetened tea to balance the sugar.
6. Khanom Chan: The Auspicious Nine-Layered Jewel
Last but not least is the subtly beautiful Khanom Chan (ขนมชั้น). Its name translates to "layered dessert," and it's a chewy, jelly-like sweet made from tapioca starch, rice flour, and coconut milk. Traditionally, it has nine layers, as the number nine (เก้า, gao) is a homophone for the Thai word for "progress" or "advancement" (ก้าวหน้า, gao-nah), making it another highly auspicious treat for celebrations.
The process of making Khanom Chan is meditative and requires immense patience. Each layer must be steamed and allowed to set before the next one is poured on top. The result is a fragrant, semi-translucent cake with a delightful bouncy texture. The primary flavours are the creamy sweetness of coconut milk and the subtle, grassy aroma of pandan leaf, which gives some of the layers their distinctive green hue. Part of the joy is peeling off and eating each layer one by one—a ritual many Thais remember fondly from childhood.
- A Texture-Lover's Dream: If you appreciate texture in your food, this dessert is for you. The satisfying chew is unlike anything in Western confectionery. Pro Tip: The best Khanom Chan has a visible sheen from the rich coconut cream and a strong pandan aroma. Avoid any that look dry or dull. It’s often sold pre-cut into squares or flower shapes in fresh markets and specialty dessert shops around the Old Town.
More Than Just a Sweet Tooth
Exploring the shophouses of Bangkok's Old Town is about so much more than satisfying a sugar craving. It’s about slowing down and appreciating the hands that have spent a lifetime perfecting a single recipe. It’s about tasting the history, culture, and love that are steamed, simmered, and folded into each of these incredible heirloom desserts.
These six "stories-in-a-spoonful" are just the beginning. The winding alleys of this historic neighbourhood hold countless other secrets waiting to be discovered. So next time you're in Bangkok, I urge you to wander beyond the main roads, follow the scent of simmering ginger or toasting coconut, and find your own edible story.
What are your favourite heirloom desserts from your travels? Do you have a hidden gem in Bangkok's Old Town that I missed? Share your delicious discoveries in the comments below!
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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