Top 6 'Trail-to-Trattoria' Backpacking Spots to stay at along Italy's Cinque Terre for Food-Loving Hikers - Goh Ling Yong
Imagine this: the sun is warm on your back, the salty air of the Ligurian Sea fills your lungs, and your legs hum with the satisfying ache of a day well spent on the trail. You've just navigated a rugged coastal path, with jaw-dropping views of terraced vineyards clinging to cliffs that plunge into an impossibly blue sea. Now, you’re sitting at a checkered tablecloth in a tiny, family-run trattoria, a glass of crisp local Vermentino in hand, awaiting a plate of pasta glistening with freshly made pesto.
This, my friends, is the "Trail-to-Trattoria" experience. It’s a philosophy of travel that I believe in deeply—one where the physical journey through a landscape is rewarded by a deep, delicious dive into its culture and cuisine. And there is no place on earth that embodies this philosophy more perfectly than Italy's Cinque Terre. This string of five (well, six, if you follow my advice) cliffside villages is a UNESCO World Heritage site for a reason, offering some of the most spectacular coastal hiking in the world.
But with so many breathtaking spots, where should a food-loving backpacker lay their head? Choosing the right village as your base camp can completely transform your trip. It's about finding that perfect balance between trail access, authentic atmosphere, and, of course, proximity to life-changing food. After years of exploring this coastline, I've curated this list to help you find your perfect spot. So lace up your hiking boots and whet your appetite—here are the top 6 'Trail-to-Trattoria' spots to stay at along Italy's Cinque Terre.
1. Monterosso al Mare: The Beach Lover's Basecamp
Monterosso is the northernmost and largest of the five villages, and the only one with a proper, expansive sandy beach. If your ideal post-hike recovery involves stretching out on the sand and taking a dip in the sea, this is your spot. It’s split into two distinct parts: the modern "Fegina" area by the train station, with its long promenade and beach clubs, and the enchanting Old Town, a maze of narrow lanes filled with artisan shops and fantastic restaurants.
From a hiking perspective, Monterosso is the starting (or ending) point for the most famous and challenging section of the Sentiero Azzurro (Blue Trail) to Vernazza. It’s a rewarding two-hour trek that serves up iconic vistas right from the get-go. The trail climbs steeply out of the village through lemon groves, offering a stunning aerial view of the town you just left. For the culinary reward, Monterosso is famous for its anchovies, or acciughe. Forget the salty little fish you get on pizza back home; here they are plump, delicate, and served in a dozen ways—fried, marinated in lemon, or salted. Find a spot in the Old Town, like Ristorante Miky, and order a plate with a side of focaccia. You’ve earned it.
Pro-Tip: Stay in the Old Town for more charm and a quieter atmosphere. The new town is convenient for the train station and beach, but the historic center is where you'll find the most authentic trattorias tucked away on side streets. It offers the best of both worlds: accessibility and old-world Italian magic.
2. Vernazza: The Picture-Perfect Jewel
If you’ve seen a postcard of the Cinque Terre, you’ve probably seen Vernazza. With its natural harbor dominated by a medieval watchtower and a vibrant piazza that spills right to the water's edge, it is undeniably the most picturesque of the five villages. Staying here feels like stepping directly into a painting. The downside? Everyone knows it. Vernazza can get incredibly crowded, especially mid-day when the day-trippers pour in. But as a backpacker staying overnight, you get to experience the magic of the village in the quiet mornings and evenings.
Vernazza is the perfect mid-point for hikers. You can tackle the trail from Monterosso one day and the trail towards Corniglia the next. The path out of Vernazza towards Corniglia is another stunner, offering the classic "money shot" view back over the village's harbor. After your hike, the main piazza is the place to be. Grab a table at one of the harborside restaurants, like Ristorante Belforte perched in the old castle, and enjoy the sunset. The local specialty to try here is Tegame alla Vernazzana, a hearty baked dish of potatoes, anchovies, tomatoes, and herbs. It’s pure Ligurian comfort food.
Pro-Tip: The best way to experience Vernazza is to embrace the verticality. Many of the best guesthouses (camere) are located high up the narrow stairways leading away from the main street. The climb with your backpack is tough, but the views and the peace and quiet are more than worth it.
3. Corniglia: The Hiker's Quiet Retreat
Corniglia is the outlier, and for many hikers, that’s its biggest draw. It's the only village not situated directly on the water, perched instead atop a 100-meter-high cliff. To reach it from the train station, you must conquer the Lardarina, a brick stairway of 382 steps (or take the small shuttle bus). This natural barrier keeps the huge crowds at bay, making Corniglia the most tranquil and arguably the most authentic of the five villages.
This is the ultimate home base for the serious hiker. Surrounded by terraced vineyards, it's the central point of the entire trail system, giving you excellent access to the high paths that weave through the vineyards and offer a completely different perspective of the coastline. The Sentiero Azzurro section between Corniglia and Manarola is one of the easier and more beautiful stretches (when open). After a long day on the trails, the reward is the profound peace of Corniglia's central piazza. Find a seat at a tiny bar, order a glass of wine made from the grapes you just walked past, and enjoy some local honey or basil-flavored gelato.
Pro-Tip: Because it's quieter, dinner reservations are still a good idea, especially at top spots like Osteria A Cantina De Mananan. The food scene here is small but excellent, focusing on land-based Ligurian classics. This is the place to try pasta with a walnut sauce (salsa di noci) or a savory vegetable pie (torta di verdura).
4. Manarola: The Sunset Sipper's Paradise
For pure, heart-stopping romance, it’s hard to beat Manarola. This tumble of brightly colored houses seems to spill down a rocky ravine into a tiny, boat-filled harbor. While it gets busy, it has a slightly more relaxed, artistic vibe than Vernazza or Riomaggiore. It is a village built for golden hour, and its main draw, beyond the hiking, is the incredible sunset view.
The trails around Manarola are magnificent. While the lower path to Riomaggiore (the famous Via dell'Amore) has been closed for years due to landslides, the higher trails are a hiker's dream. A particularly fantastic route is the path up to the village of Volastra, which takes you through ancient vineyards and offers panoramic views of Manarola from above. Your culinary mission here is to sample the local sweet wine, Sciacchetrà. This prized, amber-colored dessert wine is made from grapes dried for months and is the perfect way to cap off an evening. Head to the scenic walkway at Punta Bonfiglio, grab a seat at the beloved Nessun Dorma bar for an aperitivo with jaw-dropping views, and watch the sun dip below the horizon.
Pro-Tip: Manarola is a great place to take a pesto-making class. Several local operators offer this experience, and it's a fantastic way to connect with the region's most famous culinary export. As a traveler, I, Goh Ling Yong, always find that learning to cook a local dish is one of the best souvenirs you can bring home.
5. Riomaggiore: The Vibrant Southern Anchor
Riomaggiore is the southernmost village, and it has a slightly grittier, more lived-in feel than the others. Its main street, Via Colombo, is a steep, bustling canyon of shops, bars, and homes, leading down to a postcard-perfect little harbor. The energy here is palpable, making it a great spot for younger travelers or anyone looking for a bit more nightlife (by Cinque Terre standards, at least).
It serves as the southern anchor for the Cinque Terre trails. From here, you can access the network of paths leading up to the Sanctuary of Montenero for breathtaking views over the entire coastline. The real food highlight in Riomaggiore is the street food. After a hike, nothing beats grabbing a fritto misto—a paper cone filled with freshly fried calamari, shrimp, and anchovies—from one of the small fry shops like Il Pescato Cucinato. Grab your cone and a cold beer, find a spot on the rocks in the harbor, and watch the fishing boats bob in the water. It’s simple, delicious, and utterly perfect.
Pro-Tip: Riomaggiore's steep terrain means lots of stairs. When booking accommodation, check its location carefully if you're not keen on a major climb with your backpack at the end of every day. Staying closer to the harbor or the upper part of town near the main road can be more manageable.
6. Portovenere: The Spectacular "Sixth" Village
This is my insider tip. Portovenere isn't officially one of the Cinque Terre, but it sits just south of Riomaggiore on the same stunning stretch of coastline, known as the Gulf of Poets. Because it’s not on the main Cinque Terre train line (it's accessible by bus from La Spezia or by ferry), it avoids the most intense crowds while offering every bit of the charm and beauty. Its waterfront is lined with tall, slender pastel houses, and the whole town is lorded over by the imposing Doria Castle and the stunning Church of St. Peter, perched on a rocky outcrop.
For the trail-lover, Portovenere is a gateway to a whole different set of adventures. You can hike the challenging but spectacular trail to Riomaggiore, a 5-hour trek with unforgettable views. Or, you can take a short ferry ride to Palmaria Island for a loop hike with unique flora and secluded coves. The trattorias here are exceptional, specializing in seafood. A local must-try is spaghetti ai muscoli (mussels), which are farmed right in the gulf. Dining at a waterfront restaurant like Trattoria da Iseo, watching the boats go by as you enjoy incredibly fresh seafood, feels like a well-deserved reward for any adventurous soul.
Pro-Tip: Use the ferry system. The ferry from Portovenere not only gets you to the Cinque Terre villages but also offers the best possible view of the coastline. Seeing the villages from the water gives you a true appreciation for their dramatic, cliff-hugging construction.
Choosing your base in the Cinque Terre is about more than just finding a bed; it's about curating your ideal "Trail-to-Trattoria" adventure. Whether you crave the lively beach scene of Monterosso, the quiet contemplation of Corniglia, or the romantic sunsets of Manarola, each village offers a unique rhythm and a different flavor.
The beauty of this region is that there is no wrong choice, only the one that’s right for you. The trails connect them all, and the promise of a phenomenal, soul-satisfying meal is a constant, no matter where you end your day. So pack light, bring your appetite, and get ready to discover the magic of the Ligurian coast, one step and one bite at a time.
What’s your favorite post-hike meal in Italy? Have you found your own "secret" spot along this coast? Share your thoughts and questions in the comments below
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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