Art & Crafts

Top 7 'Kitchen-Table' Printmaking Techniques to try for Illustrators Without a Studio in 2025

Goh Ling Yong
14 min read
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#Printmaking#Illustration#DIY Crafts#Art Tutorial#Home Studio#Creative Process#Artist Tips

Ever dream of pulling a fresh, inky print, the paper still warm, revealing your illustration in a bold new form? For many illustrators, the world of printmaking feels like a members-only club, complete with a secret handshake and a key to a sprawling, solvent-scented studio with a giant, intimidating press in the corner. We see the gorgeous, textured results on Pinterest and Instagram and think, "I could never do that in my tiny apartment."

Well, I'm here to bust that myth wide open. The truth is, you don't need a dedicated studio or a four-figure piece of equipment to explore the tactile magic of printmaking. All you need is a clear corner of a table (yes, your kitchen table will do just fine), a few clever supplies, and a spirit of experimentation. This is the world of "kitchen-table printmaking," and it's more accessible, affordable, and fun than you could ever imagine.

In 2025, illustrators are continuing to embrace analog techniques to add warmth, texture, and a unique handmade quality to their digital work. Integrating printmaking into your practice can open up new creative avenues, lead to happy accidents, and even create a new income stream through limited edition prints. So, let's clear off those breakfast crumbs, roll up our sleeves, and dive into the top seven kitchen-table printmaking techniques you can try today.


1. The Classic Carve: Linocut & Rubber Stamp Making

If you ever carved a potato stamp in primary school, you’ve already been introduced to the core concept of relief printing. Linocut is its more sophisticated, detail-oriented cousin. The process is beautifully straightforward: you take a block of linoleum or a softer rubber alternative, carve away the areas you want to remain white (the "negative space"), roll ink onto the raised surface that's left, and press it onto paper.

The beauty of linocut for the home artist is its simplicity and control. The tools are relatively inexpensive—a starter set with a handle and interchangeable blades, a lino block, a tube of water-based block printing ink, and a brayer (a small roller) is all you need to begin. The process itself is meditative and forces you to think about your illustration in terms of positive and negative space, a fantastic exercise for any artist. It’s a technique that rewards patience and results in bold, graphic prints with a charming handmade texture.

  • Getting Started Tip: For absolute beginners, start with a soft rubber block like Speedball’s Speedy-Carve. It’s pink or white and cuts like butter, making it much more forgiving than traditional battleship-grey linoleum. You'll avoid a lot of frustration (and potential hand strain!).
  • Pressure is Key: You don't need a press! To transfer the ink to paper, lay your paper on the inked block and firmly rub the back with the back of a wooden spoon, a baren (a simple printmaking tool), or even the flat bottom of a glass jar. Apply even, circular pressure until you can see the design faintly through the paper.
  • Project Idea: Create a series of small botanical stamps to decorate stationery, or design a larger, more intricate illustration to be framed as a limited edition print.

2. The Painterly Print: Monoprinting

Monoprinting is the most immediate and painterly of all printmaking techniques. The name says it all: "mono" means one. Each print is a unique, one-of-a-kind piece. This is where illustrators with a love for loose, expressive marks can truly shine. The process involves applying ink to a smooth, non-porous plate (like a sheet of plexiglass or even the glass from an old picture frame), manipulating the ink, and then pressing paper onto it to pull the image.

There are two main ways to create a monoprint. The first is the "additive" method, where you paint directly onto the plate with brushes, rollers, and rags. The second is the "subtractive" method, where you roll a solid field of colour onto the plate and then remove the ink with cotton swabs, rags, or silicone tools to "draw" your image out of the darkness. Both methods are incredibly liberating because there’s no pressure to make a perfect edition; every single print will be different.

  • Your DIY Plate: You can buy purpose-made "inking plates," but you don't have to. A cheap 8x10" picture frame from a charity shop provides a perfect glass surface. Just be sure to tape the edges for safety! A sheet of plexiglass from a hardware store also works wonderfully.
  • Experiment with Texture: This is where monoprinting gets really fun. Once your ink is on the plate, press things into it before you print! Try bubble wrap, crumpled paper, string, leaves, or fabric mesh. The texture will be transferred to your final print, adding incredible depth and interest.
  • Ghost Prints: After you pull your first, main print, there will often be a faint layer of ink left on the plate. You can pull a second, lighter print from this residue, known as a "ghost print." These are often beautifully subtle and can be used as backgrounds for other work.

3. The Layering Champion: Gelli Plate Printing

A Gelli plate is a specific type of monoprinting plate made from a soft, squishy slab of gelatin-like polymer. It has revolutionized kitchen-table printmaking because it’s reusable, easy to clean with water, and incredibly receptive to fine detail and texture. It captures the subtle imprints of leaves, feathers, and fabrics with stunning clarity, making it a dream for illustrators who love incorporating natural or found textures into their work.

The real magic of Gelli printing is in the layering. Because you're typically using fast-drying acrylic paints instead of slow-drying inks, you can work quickly, building up translucent layers of colour and texture. You can print a light yellow background using a leaf, wait a few minutes for it to dry, and then print a bold blue key-line drawing right over the top. The possibilities for complex, colourful compositions are endless.

  • Use Stencils and Masks: Cut simple shapes out of plain paper to use as masks. Lay the mask on your inked Gelli plate, and it will block the paint from transferring. On your next layer, you can use the leftover paper shape (the stencil) to apply paint only within that area. This is a simple way to create complex, multi-coloured images.
  • Don't Over-Ink: A common mistake is to put way too much paint on the plate. You only need a few pea-sized drops. When you roll it out with your brayer, you should hear a sticky, "hissing" sound—that's the sign of a perfect, thin layer of paint ready for printing.
  • Embrace Imperfection: Gelli printing is not about perfect registration or clean edges. It’s about surprising textures and happy accidents. Let go of control and see where the process takes you. Some of my favorite illustrations, much like the ones Goh Ling Yong often showcases, have come from unexpected Gelli print textures that I later scanned and incorporated into digital work.

4. The Mad Scientist's Method: Kitchen Lithography

Ready to feel like a brilliant art-hacker? Kitchen Lithography, or "Kitchen Litho," is a fantastic, low-toxic way to mimic the principles of traditional stone lithography using everyday household items. The core principle of lithography is that oil and water don't mix. Here, you'll be using aluminum foil, an oily drawing material, and a can of cola. Yes, really.

You start by drawing your image on a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil with an oil-based marker, crayon, or even a grease pencil. The foil is then "etched" with cola—the phosphoric acid in the soda lightly bites the foil, making the non-image areas receptive to water. After rinsing, you sponge the foil with water (which sticks to the etched areas but is repelled by your oily drawing), then roll on an oil-based ink (which sticks to your drawing but is repelled by the wet areas). Press paper onto it, and you’ve just performed a bit of scientific magic at your kitchen table.

  • Key Materials: Heavy-duty aluminum foil (don't use the cheap stuff!), an oil-based drawing tool (like a Litho crayon or even a Sharpie), a can of full-sugar cola, vegetable oil for cleanup, and oil-based block printing ink.
  • The Process in a Nutshell: Tape your foil to a board. Draw your design. Pour cola over the whole thing and let it sit for a few minutes. Gently rinse and blot dry. Now, keeping the plate damp with a sponge, roll on your oil-based ink. The ink will only adhere to your drawing. Print. It’s wild!
  • Expect a Gritty Look: This technique produces a unique, slightly grainy, and soft-edged look that is very different from the sharp lines of a linocut. It's perfect for illustrations that benefit from a vintage or hand-drawn textural quality.

5. The Textile Transformer: Embroidery Hoop Screen Printing

Traditional screen printing can seem like the most inaccessible technique, requiring large screens, emulsion, exposure units, and washout booths. But you can achieve a similar result for small-scale projects like tote bags, tea towels, or t-shirt pockets using a simple embroidery hoop.

This DIY method involves stretching a piece of sheer fabric (like organza or a high-thread-count curtain sheer) tightly in an embroidery hoop to create a mini-screen. You can then create your stencil in a couple of ways. The easiest is the "drawing fluid and screen filler" method: you paint your design onto the screen with drawing fluid, cover the whole screen with a layer of screen filler, and once it's dry, wash out the drawing fluid with cold water, leaving your design open as a stencil. Then, you just place it on your fabric, spoon on some screen printing ink, and pull it across with a squeegee or a piece of stiff cardboard.

  • Choose the Right Fabric: The sheerness of the fabric determines the detail you can achieve. A fine mesh organza from a fabric store is a great, inexpensive starting point.
  • One Colour at a Time: This method is best suited for one-colour designs. While you can do multiple colours, registering them perfectly without a proper press is very tricky. Embrace the simplicity of a bold, single-colour graphic.
  • Project Idea: Design a custom logo or illustration for a set of tote bags to give as gifts or sell on Etsy. It's a fantastic way to turn your illustrations into functional, desirable products.

6. The Magic of Sunlight: Cyanotype Printing

Cyanotype is a photographic printing process that produces a stunning cyan-blue print—you might know them as "sun prints" or "blueprints." For illustrators, this is an enchanting way to create images with a ghostly, ethereal quality. The process relies on paper coated with a light-sensitive solution. When an object or a negative is placed on the paper and exposed to UV light (like the sun), the paper exposed to light turns blue, while the areas blocked by your object remain white.

You can buy pre-coated cyanotype paper or fabric, which is the easiest way to start. Alternatively, you can buy the chemicals (Potassium Ferricyanide and Ferric Ammonium Citrate) and coat your own paper, which gives you more control over the surface and tone. The process is simple: in a dim room, place your objects (leaves, flowers, lace) or your negative on the paper, place it under a piece of glass to hold it flat, and expose it to direct sunlight for 5-20 minutes. You'll know it's done when the exposed areas turn a dull, bronzy-grey. To "fix" the image, you simply rinse it in a tub of cool water until the water runs clear, and watch as the iconic prussian blue magically develops.

  • Creating Your Negative: Illustrators don't have to rely on found objects. You can print your own designs in high contrast black and white onto a sheet of transparency film (the kind used for old overhead projectors). This printed transparency becomes your photographic negative.
  • Safety First: If you mix your own chemicals, wear gloves and eye protection and work in a well-ventilated area. While the chemicals are relatively low-toxicity, it's always best to be cautious. The pre-coated papers are perfectly safe and require no extra precautions.
  • Toning Your Prints: You don't have to stick with blue! After your print is washed and dried, you can alter its colour by toning it in a bath of strong black tea, green tea, or coffee to achieve beautiful brown, grey, or sepia tones.

7. The Delicate Line: Drypoint Etching on Plexiglass

Traditional etching involves scratching into a metal plate and using acid to deepen the lines. Drypoint is its non-toxic, kitchen-table-friendly cousin. Instead of metal and acid, you use a sheet of clear plexiglass (or any clear, stiff plastic packaging) and a sharp, pointed tool to scratch your drawing directly into the surface.

When you scratch the plate, you're not just creating a groove; you're also raising a tiny, rough ridge of plastic on either side of the line, called the "burr." When you apply ink to the plate and then wipe the surface clean, this burr traps a significant amount of ink, resulting in the soft, velvety, and slightly fuzzy line that is characteristic of a drypoint print. The pressure required to print can be a challenge without a press, but for small plates, the back-of-the-spoon method works surprisingly well.

  • Your Etching Tool: You can buy a professional etching needle, but a simple nail taped securely to a dowel, a sharpened piece of rebar, or any other hard, sharp metal point will work to scratch the plexiglass.
  • Inking and Wiping is an Art: This is the trickiest part. You have to force the ink into all your tiny scratches and then carefully wipe the surface of the plate clean with a cloth called a tarlatan (or a piece of cheesecloth), leaving the ink only in the lines. It takes practice to get a clean wipe without pulling the ink out of your drawing.
  • The Edition is Limited: Because the plastic "burr" that creates the beautiful line is fragile, it wears down with each pass through a press (or each vigorous spoon-rubbing). This means you can only get a small edition of 5-15 high-quality prints before the lines start to degrade. This inherent scarcity makes each drypoint print incredibly special.

Your Studio is Wherever You Are

The line between illustrator and printmaker is finer than you think. You don't need to rent a studio or invest in a press to start exploring these wonderfully tactile techniques. Your kitchen table, a small collection of affordable supplies, and a healthy dose of curiosity are all that’s required.

Each of these methods offers a unique way to reinterpret your illustrative style, to think differently about line, shape, and texture, and to create physical objects imbued with your artistic voice. Pick the one that excites you most—whether it's the bold graphics of linocut or the magical alchemy of cyanotype—and just give it a go. Embrace the smudges, the happy accidents, and the joy of pulling that very first print.

Which of these kitchen-table printmaking techniques are you most excited to try? Do you have any tips for fellow illustrators printing from home? Share your thoughts and questions in the comments below—I'd love to see what you create


About the Author

Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:

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