Top 8 'Centuries-Old' Wagashi Shops to try in Tokyo for a Taste of Samurai-Era Sweets - Goh Ling Yong
Step away from the neon glow of Shibuya Crossing and the futuristic skyline of Shinjuku. Today, we’re embarking on a different kind of Tokyo adventure—a journey back in time, guided by our taste buds. We're on a quest for wagashi, the traditional Japanese sweets that are more than just dessert. They are edible art, tiny capsules of history and seasonal beauty, crafted with techniques passed down through generations.
These confections were the preferred indulgence of samurai lords, poets, and emperors, often enjoyed during the serene ritual of the tea ceremony. Unlike the sugar-heavy desserts of the West, wagashi are subtle, relying on the natural sweetness of ingredients like red adzuki beans, rice, and fruit. Each sweet tells a story, and the shops that make them are living museums, some having weathered centuries of change, from the fall of shoguns to the rise of skyscrapers.
As a long-time explorer of Japan's hidden corners for the Goh Ling Yong blog, I've found that one of the best ways to connect with the country's soul is through its food. So, grab your virtual chopsticks. We're about to visit eight legendary wagashi shops in Tokyo, each with a history stretching back over a century, offering a delicious taste of the samurai era.
1. Toraya Akasaka: The Confectioner to the Emperor
If wagashi had a royal family, Toraya would be its reigning monarch. With a staggering history that began in Kyoto in the early 16th century, Toraya has been the official purveyor of sweets to the Imperial Court for nearly 500 years. Stepping into their stunning Akasaka flagship store, a modern architectural masterpiece, you feel the seamless blend of profound tradition and contemporary elegance.
While the building is new, the recipes are ancient. Toraya is most famous for its yokan, a firm, jellied dessert made from adzuki bean paste, sugar, and agar. It’s dense, complex, and unbelievably satisfying. They have perfected this art form, offering everything from the classic dark Yoru no Ume (Night Plum) to seasonal variations featuring yuzu or white beans. This isn't just a sweet shop; it's an institution dedicated to preserving the highest form of wagashi culture.
Pro Tip: Don't just shop—experience. Head to the second-floor tea room, Toraya Karyo, for an unforgettable treat. Order a seasonal namagashi (a fresh, artistically shaped sweet) with a bowl of perfectly whisked matcha. As you gaze out at the serene garden, you'll understand why Toraya has been revered for half a millennium.
2. Shiose Souhonke: The Birthplace of Manju
Prepare to be humbled. Shiose Souhonke isn't just old; it's a foundational piece of Japanese culinary history. Established in 1349, this shop claims to be the originator of the manju in Japan. The story goes that its founder, a disciple of a Chinese Zen monk, adapted a recipe for steamed buns from China, creating the very first Japanese manju. Eating here is like tasting a primary source document.
Located near Nihonbashi, the shop is modest and unassuming, belying its incredible legacy. Their signature Shiose Manju is the epitome of classic simplicity: a delicate, thin wrapper made from wheat flour and a filling of smooth, refined bean paste (koshian). The sweetness is restrained, allowing the pure, earthy flavor of the adzuki beans to shine.
Pro Tip: This is a taste of history, not a modern sugar rush. Appreciate the subtlety. Their Hon-manju, which uses a fermented dough for the wrapper, is even closer to the original 14th-century recipe and offers a slightly savory, complex flavor. It's a must-try for culinary historians and adventurous foodies.
3. Kuzumochi Funabashiya: The 215-Year-Old Fermented Delicacy
In a city that moves at lightning speed, Funabashiya, founded in 1805, is a testament to the virtue of patience. They specialize in one thing: kuzumochi. But this isn't the kuzumochi you might know. Instead of being made from kuzu root powder, theirs is crafted from wheat starch that has been painstakingly fermented in wooden barrels for over 450 days. It's the only shop in the Kanto region that still uses this ancient method.
This natural fermentation process gives the finished product, a firm, white, gelatinous cake, a unique, slightly tangy flavor and a satisfyingly chewy texture. It's also known for being a healthy, probiotic-rich treat. Located just outside the Kameido Tenjin Shrine, Funabashiya has been a beloved stop for worshippers for over two centuries.
Pro Tip: Kuzumochi is always served freshly cut and topped with a generous dusting of fragrant kinako (roasted soybean flour) and a drizzle of rich kuromitsu (black sugar syrup). It's a dessert that must be eaten immediately, as it loses its perfect texture within hours. Plan your visit to coincide with a trip to the shrine, especially during the stunning wisteria festival in late April.
4. Chomeiji Sakuramochi: The Original Cherry Blossom Sweet
Every spring, Japan celebrates the cherry blossoms, and one of the most iconic treats of the season is sakuramochi. Chomeiji Sakuramochi, established in 1717, is where the Kanto-style version of this sweet was born. The founder, a guard at the nearby Chomeiji Temple, came up with the brilliant idea of preserving the fallen cherry leaves from the banks of the Sumida River in salt and using them to wrap sweet bean paste-filled mochi.
The Kanto style uses a thin, crepe-like pancake made from wheat flour to encase the red bean paste, a stark contrast to the chunkier, rice-based Kansai version. The shop itself is a charming, old-fashioned storefront that feels like it has been frozen in time. They focus on doing one thing and doing it perfectly.
Pro Tip: The big question: do you eat the leaf? The shop recommends eating it! The salty, slightly floral leaf provides the perfect counterpoint to the sweet mochi and bean paste. They typically wrap each sakuramochi in three leaves, suggesting you eat one or two with the sweet for the ideal balance. They sell out daily, so go early.
5. Habutae Dango: The Dango of Literary Legends
For a taste of Meiji-era Tokyo, head to Habutae Dango in Nippori. Founded in 1819, this shop became a favorite haunt for some of Japan's most famous literary figures, including novelist Natsume Soseki (I Am a Cat) and poet Masaoka Shiki. They immortalized the shop's dango in their works, cementing its place in Tokyo's cultural history.
The name habutae refers to a type of smooth, lustrous silk, a fitting description for the dango's impossibly fine texture. The mochi is so smooth it practically melts in your mouth. The shop, with its traditional garden and tatami seating, provides the perfect atmosphere to savor this historic treat.
Pro Tip: Order the classic set, which comes with two skewers: one coated in a velvety-smooth, sweet red bean paste (koshian) and the other brushed with a savory, smoky soy sauce glaze (shoyu). Enjoying this pairing with a cup of hot green tea in their tranquil dining space is one of Tokyo's most authentic and affordable luxuries.
6. Kototoi Dango: The Dango with a Poet's Heart
Another gem near the Sumida River, Kototoi Dango was established in the late Edo period. This shop is pure poetry, from its name to its signature product. The story tells of a founder who, inspired by the view from the riverbank, created a dango set to represent the scenery.
The result is a beautiful trio of mochi balls on a single skewer, each with a distinct color and flavor. The black one represents the riverbed, coated in pure adzuki bean paste. The white one signifies the gulls flying overhead, covered in a delicate white bean paste. And the yellow one symbolizes the misohagi flowers on the bank, flavored with a subtle, sweet miso paste. Even the name "Kototoi" comes from a classic poem about the capital gulls.
Pro Tip: This is another specialist shop, so the choice is simple: order the Kototoi Dango. The combination of the three distinct pastes—sweet, mild, and slightly savory—is a unique and delightful experience. It’s a perfect, picturesque snack to enjoy while strolling along the Sumida River or after visiting the nearby Mukojima-Hyakkaen Gardens.
7. Usagiya: The Undisputed King of Dorayaki
While it’s the "youngest" shop on our list, having been founded in 1913, Usagiya is a titan in the world of wagashi. Located in Ueno, it is legendary for one thing: dorayaki. These are the famous pancake-like sweets filled with red bean paste, beloved by the cartoon character Doraemon. And Usagiya's version is widely considered the best in Tokyo, if not all of Japan.
What makes it so special? The pancakes are impossibly fluffy and moist, with a beautiful golden-brown color and a hint of honey. The filling is a chunky tsubuan paste made from premium adzuki beans from Tokachi, Hokkaido. It's perfectly balanced—sweet but not cloying, allowing the rich flavor of the beans to shine. The constant line of loyal customers outside is a testament to its quality.
Pro Tip: Go early and buy more than you think you'll need. The dorayaki are made fresh throughout the day and are best consumed on the day of purchase. Their name, Usagiya, means "Rabbit Shop," and you’ll find cute rabbit-themed sweets, but the dorayaki is the non-negotiable must-buy.
8. Akasaka Aono: Meiji-Era Elegance in a Box
Founded in 1899, during the culturally rich Meiji period, Akasaka Aono represents a more refined and elegant style of wagashi. While they offer a wide range of beautiful sweets, their most famous creation is the Akasaka Mochi, a treat that is as much an experience as it is a dessert.
This isn't your typical mochi. It’s an incredibly soft, delicate gyuhi mochi (a softer variety) generously dusted with kinako. What makes it unique is the presentation. It comes with a small container of chopped walnuts and a packet of kuromitsu syrup, all wrapped in a charming miniature furoshiki (traditional wrapping cloth). You assemble it yourself, creating a personalized bite of sweet, nutty, and roasty perfection.
Pro Tip: The Akasaka Mochi makes for a stunningly beautiful and delicious souvenir or gift. Their seasonal namagashi are also exquisite works of art, reflecting the changing flora of Japan with incredible detail. It’s a perfect place to find a high-quality, impressive gift for someone special (or for yourself).
A Sweet Taste of History
Exploring these centuries-old wagashi shops is about so much more than satisfying a sweet tooth. It’s about connecting with the artisans who have dedicated their lives to perfecting a single recipe. It's about tasting the flavors that have delighted generations of Tokyoites, from samurai warriors to modern-day office workers. Each bite is a delicious, tangible link to the city's incredible past.
On my many food journeys across Japan, which I often document for Goh Ling Yong's readers, it’s these enduring, family-run establishments that leave the deepest impression. They are the quiet, beating heart of Japanese culture.
Now it's your turn. Which of these historical sweet shops would you visit first? Do you have a favorite wagashi shop that holds a special place in your heart? Share your thoughts in the comments below—I'd love to hear your recommendations
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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