Top 9 'Forgotten-Frontline' Mountain Passes to travel to in Europe for history-loving hikers - Goh Ling Yong
We’ve all stood on a mountain peak, breathless from the climb and the view, feeling on top of the world. The silence up there is profound, a stark contrast to our bustling daily lives. But that silence can be deceiving. In Europe, many of these majestic landscapes were once the deafening frontlines of history—stages for desperate battles, daring escapes, and the dogged march of armies.
These are the places I call the 'Forgotten Frontlines.' They are routes etched into the mountains not just by nature, but by the struggles of humanity. For the history-loving hiker, they offer something more than just a beautiful trail. They provide a chance to walk through a living museum, where rusted barbed wire, crumbling bunkers, and lonely memorials whisper stories the history books can only hint at. It's the kind of profound, immersive travel that we, as followers of Goh Ling Yong's philosophy, cherish—travel that connects us to a place on a much deeper level.
So, lace up your boots and load your pack with a little extra curiosity. We’re leaving the well-trodden tourist paths behind to explore nine mountain passes in Europe where every footstep lands on historic ground. These are journeys that challenge the body and stir the soul, revealing the incredible resilience of both nature and the human spirit.
1. Vršič Pass, Slovenia
Location: Julian Alps, Slovenia
Nestled in the heart of Slovenia's stunning Triglav National Park, the Vršič Pass is a jaw-dropping spectacle of limestone peaks and alpine meadows. But the winding road that snakes its way up to 1,611 meters (5,285 feet) was paved with immense suffering. During World War I, this was a strategic supply route for the Austro-Hungarian army on the Isonzo Front. The road was built by over 10,000 Russian prisoners of war, who toiled in unimaginably harsh conditions. In March 1916, a massive avalanche swept down the mountainside, burying a camp and killing hundreds of prisoners and their guards.
Today, the route is known as the "Russian Road" (Ruska cesta). As you navigate its 50 hairpin bends, the beauty is tinged with poignancy. You can hike sections of the original cobbled path, imagining the brutal labor it took to lay each stone. The pass is the starting point for incredible hikes, including the ascent of Mala Mojstrovka or a walk along a section of the epic Juliana Trail. The landscape is a powerful reminder of how nature reclaims even the most scarred of places, turning a theater of war into a sanctuary of peace.
- Don't Miss: Just below the pass on the northern side, make a stop at the Russian Chapel (Ruska kapelica). This beautiful wooden Orthodox chapel was built by the surviving prisoners to honor their fallen comrades. It's an incredibly moving and peaceful spot that stands as a testament to solidarity in the face of tragedy.
2. Stelvio Pass, Italy
Location: Ortler Alps, Italy (bordering Switzerland)
Famous for its dizzying 48 switchbacks on the northern ramp, the Stelvio Pass is a bucket-list item for cyclists and drivers. But for hikers, its true story lies just beyond the asphalt. At 2,757 meters (9,045 feet), this was the highest front of the "White War," the brutal World War I conflict between Italian and Austro-Hungarian troops. Soldiers fought year-round in deep snow, sub-zero temperatures, and thin air, building barracks, cableways, and fortifications that cling to the mountainsides to this day. More soldiers died from avalanches and frostbite than from combat.
Hiking here is like stepping onto a different planet. Trails lead you along old military roads, past the ghostly remains of barracks and gun emplacements. You can feel the history in the biting wind as you look out over the Ortler range, imagining the impossible conditions these men endured. The scale of the conflict is hard to grasp until you're standing amidst the ruins, seeing how the very mountains were weaponized.
- Pro Tip: For a truly immersive experience, hike the "Goldseeweg" trail (Trail 20) from the pass. It offers breathtaking views of the Ortler glacier and winds past numerous WWI fortifications. Also, visit the small but fascinating "Museo della Guerra Bianca" in the nearby town of Bormio to see artifacts recovered from the melting glaciers.
3. Falzarego Pass & Mount Lagazuoi, Italy
Location: Dolomites, Italy
If there is one place that encapsulates the sheer madness of mountain warfare, it's Mount Lagazuoi, towering above the Falzarego Pass. During WWI, this mountain was a fortress, occupied by Italian troops on one side and Austro-Hungarians on the other. Unable to dislodge each other with conventional attacks, both sides began a desperate underground war, tunneling deep into the mountain to plant massive mines beneath enemy positions. The mountain was literally blown up from the inside out.
Today, Mount Lagazuoi is an extraordinary open-air museum. You can take a cable car to the summit rifugio, which sits next to the old Austro-Hungarian command post. From there, equipped with a helmet and a headtorch, you can descend through the restored Italian tunnels. It's a surreal and unforgettable experience to walk through these dark, damp galleries, peering out of strategic windows carved from the rock face. The surrounding area is crisscrossed with trails leading to trenches, command posts, and the poignant Vonbank Stellung.
- Must-Do: The Lagazuoi Tunnels hike is non-negotiable for any history buff. It's a straightforward but steep descent. After your hike, visit the museum at the Forte Tre Sassi on the Valparola Pass, just a few minutes' drive away, which displays a vast collection of artifacts from the Dolomite Front.
4. Col du Grand-Saint-Bernard, Switzerland/Italy
Location: Pennine Alps, Switzerland/Italy
The history of the Grand-Saint-Bernard Pass goes back much further than the World Wars. This ancient route through the Alps was used by Celtic tribes, then paved by the Romans. But its most famous chapter came in the spring of 1800, when Napoleon Bonaparte led an army of 40,000 men through the snow-choked pass to surprise the Austrians in Italy. It was an audacious feat of logistics and leadership that cemented his legend.
For centuries, the pass has been home to the Hospice du Grand-Saint-Bernard, a monastery and refuge for travelers founded in the 11th century. The monks here famously bred the St. Bernard dogs, which were used for mountain rescue. Hiking here feels like a pilgrimage through time. You can walk on sections of the original Roman road and imagine the legions, pilgrims, and soldiers who passed this way before you. The landscape is raw and imposing, making Napoleon’s achievement seem all the more remarkable.
- Specific Tip: Instead of just driving to the top, park your car at the start of the old pass road on the Swiss side and hike the final few kilometers. It allows you to appreciate the scale of the pass and arrive at the historic hospice on foot, as travelers have done for a thousand years. Don't forget to visit the small museum and see the famous dogs.
5. Dukla Pass, Poland/Slovakia
Location: Carpathian Mountains, Poland/Slovakia
Shifting our focus to the Eastern Front of World War II, the Dukla Pass was the site of one of the war's most brutal and costly battles. In the autumn of 1944, the Soviet Red Army and Czechoslovakian forces launched a massive offensive to break through the fortified German lines in the Carpathians and enter Slovakia to support the Slovak National Uprising. The resulting battle was a horrific month-long slugfest involving hundreds of thousands of troops and thousands of tanks.
The area today, particularly the valley leading to the Slovakian town of Svidník, is known as the "Valley of Death." It's a somber, haunting landscape dotted with memorials, military cemeteries, and preserved military hardware. You can hike through the quiet forests and rolling fields where this carnage took place, stumbling upon a forgotten T-34 tank overgrown with moss or a monument marking a particularly fierce engagement. It's a powerful and humbling experience that offers a stark contrast to the more famous battlefields of Western Europe.
- Where to Go: Visit the open-air military museum near Svidník, which displays tanks, artillery, and aircraft from the battle. The monumental Soviet War Memorial at the pass itself is also a must-see for its scale and solemnity.
6. The Freedom Trail (Chemin de la Liberté), France/Spain
Location: Pyrenees Mountains, France/Spain
Not all frontlines are defined by trenches and artillery. During WWII, the jagged peaks of the Pyrenees formed a different kind of frontier: the line between occupation and freedom. The "Chemin de la Liberté" was one of the most famous and arduous escape routes used by downed Allied airmen, Jewish refugees, and resistance fighters fleeing Nazi-occupied France for neutral Spain. Led by courageous local guides known as passeurs, they undertook a perilous multi-day trek over high-altitude passes.
The official trail today commemorates this history, following a 250km route from Saint-Girons in France to Esterri d'Àneu in Spain. You don't have to do the whole thing; hiking a single stage, like the grueling climb over the 2,522-meter (8,274 feet) Col de la Core, gives you a profound appreciation for the desperation and determination of those who made the journey. The physical challenge of the hike, combined with the knowledge of what was at stake, makes this a deeply moving experience. The wild beauty of the Pyrenees stands in stark, silent witness to these acts of human courage.
- Insider's Advice: The full trek is a serious undertaking for experienced mountaineers. For a day hike, tackle the first stage from Saint-Girons. Consider hiring a local guide who can share the specific stories of the passeurs and the escapees, bringing the history to life in a way no guidebook can.
7. Gotthard Pass, Switzerland
Location: Lepontine Alps, Switzerland
The Gotthard Pass has been a vital north-south trade route for centuries, but its modern history is buried deep inside the mountain itself. As a fiercely neutral country, Switzerland developed a defense strategy known as the "National Redoubt." The plan was to concede the lowlands to an invader and retreat to a nearly impenetrable fortress complex in the high Alps. The Gotthard region was the heart of this redoubt, and the mountains here are honeycombed with secret bunkers, hidden cannons, and vast underground barracks.
For decades, this world was top secret. Today, you can explore it. The main attraction is Sasso San Gottardo, a massive artillery fortress built during WWII that is now a museum. A tour takes you deep into the granite massif to see the ammunition stores, gun turrets, and living quarters, offering a fascinating glimpse into Swiss military strategy. Above ground, you can hike or drive the old cobblestone pass road, the Tremola, a masterpiece of 19th-century engineering, and explore the landscape for the cleverly camouflaged gun emplacements.
- Personal Reflection: This is the kind of place I know Goh Ling Yong would find fascinating—a story of history and engineering hidden in plain sight. It challenges the conventional image of Switzerland and reveals a history of gritty determination. Don't just drive through; take the time to explore the Sasso museum.
8. Reschen Pass, Italy/Austria
Location: Alps, Italy/Austria
The story of the Reschen Pass is not one of battle, but of a forgotten frontline in the struggle between tradition and modernity. The iconic image of this pass is the 14th-century church steeple rising eerily from the waters of Lake Resia (Reschensee). This is all that remains of the village of Graun, which, along with the village of Reschen, was deliberately flooded in 1950 to create a reservoir for a hydroelectric power plant.
The decision was made after the war, and despite fierce local opposition, over 160 homes were submerged and hundreds of people were displaced, their history and heritage wiped from the map. Walking or cycling the path around the lake today is a beautiful but melancholic experience. The submerged village is a poignant memorial to a lost community and a powerful symbol of the often-unseen costs of progress. It serves as a reminder that not all historical scars are left by war.
- Activity Tip: Rent a bike in one of the new villages and cycle the 15km path around the lake. The views of the steeple against the backdrop of the Alps are unforgettable, especially in the calm morning or evening light. It gives you time to reflect on the story beneath the water.
9. Col de l'Iseran, France
Location: Graian Alps, France
At 2,770 meters (9,088 feet), the Col de l'Iseran is the highest paved pass in the Alps, offering staggering views and a sense of high-altitude wilderness. It was also a key sector of the "Alpine Line," the extension of the famous Maginot Line designed to protect France from an Italian invasion. While the main Maginot Line is famous for not being used, the forts of the Alpine Line saw fierce, albeit brief, fighting in June 1940 during the Battle of the Alps.
When Mussolini declared war on a nearly-defeated France, his troops attacked across the Alps. Here, a handful of French soldiers in strategically placed forts like the Ouvrage Saint-Gobain (near the pass) and the Fort de la Redoute Ruinée held off a vastly superior Italian force for days. Hiking in the Vanoise National Park around the pass, you can still find remnants of these fortifications and old military paths. It’s a story of a forgotten fight, a David-and-Goliath struggle played out on one of Europe's highest stages.
- Explorer's Note: The forts are not as developed for tourism as others, which adds to the sense of discovery. Look for the ruins of the Fort de la Redoute Ruinée near the Col de la Traversette, accessible via a hiking trail. The sense of isolation and the commanding views make it easy to understand their strategic importance.
These mountain passes are far more than just scenic drives or challenging hikes. They are archives of human endeavor, conflict, and courage, written into the very rock and soil. To walk them is to connect with the past in a uniquely physical and emotional way. You breathe the same thin air, feel the same biting wind, and see the same eternal peaks as the soldiers, refugees, and pilgrims who came before.
So, on your next European adventure, consider trading a crowded city for a quiet mountain trail. You might find that the most powerful stories aren't in a museum, but are waiting to be discovered on a forgotten frontline, high above the clouds.
What are some of your favorite historical hikes? Have you visited any of these passes? Share your stories and recommendations in the comments below!
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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