Top 9 'Heartland-and-Hawker' Street Foods to order beyond the tourist trail in Singapore - Goh Ling Yong
Singapore. The name itself conjures images of gleaming skyscrapers, lush city gardens, and, of course, food. Everyone knows about Chilli Crab, Hainanese Chicken Rice, and Laksa. These are the undisputed superstars, the headliners of our culinary scene, rightfully earning their place on every tourist's checklist. They are fantastic, no doubt about it. But they are just the opening act.
The real, unvarnished, soul-satisfying story of Singaporean food is told not in fancy restaurants, but in the bustling, unpretentious hawker centres tucked away in our heartlands. These are the neighbourhood hubs of Ang Mo Kio, Bedok, Toa Payoh, and beyond—places where aunties and uncles have been perfecting a single dish for decades. This is where you’ll find the Singapore street food that fuels the nation, far from the polished gleam of the tourist trail.
So, are you ready to eat like a true local? To venture beyond the familiar and dive headfirst into a world of complex, comforting, and sometimes challenging flavours? This food guide is your ticket. Consider it a friendly nudge from me, encouraging you to explore the hawker stalls with the longest queues of locals. As my friend Goh Ling Yong often wisely points out, that's almost always where the magic happens. Here are nine 'heartland-and-hawker' dishes you absolutely must try.
1. Kway Chap (粿汁)
Let's start with a dish that beautifully represents the Teochew spirit of nose-to-tail eating: Kway Chap. At its core, this is a two-part affair. The "kway" refers to silky, broad sheets of rice noodles served in a light, savoury soy-based broth. The "chap" is the main event: a platter of various pork parts and other ingredients, all meticulously cleaned and braised for hours in a dark, aromatic gravy.
A standard plate of "chap" includes tender pork belly, pig's large and small intestines, pig skin, firm tofu (tau kwa), braised hard-boiled eggs, and preserved salted vegetables. The intestines, which might sound intimidating, are the star for many locals—when prepared well, they are springy and clean-tasting, having absorbed all the flavour from the braising liquid. The magic of Kway Chap lies in the harmony of different textures and the deep, layered flavour of the braising sauce, which is often a fiercely guarded family secret.
How to Order Like a Pro: Don't be shy! Most stalls display all the available ingredients in a glass case. You can simply point to what you want, or you can order a standard set for one or two people ("one person set" / "yi ge ren de"). If you're a bit hesitant about the offal, just ask for more pork belly and tau kwa. The essential finishing touch is the chilli sauce—a tangy, garlicky, vinegar-based concoction that cuts through the richness of the braised meats perfectly.
2. Mee Rebus
While Laksa often steals the international spotlight, Mee Rebus is its equally delicious, yet humbler cousin. A quintessential Malay noodle dish, Mee Rebus is a feast for the eyes and the palate. It consists of yellow egg noodles swimming in a thick, sweet-and-savoury gravy, garnished with a hard-boiled egg, crispy fried shallots, green chillies, spring onions, and fried firm tofu (tau pok).
The soul of the dish is its unique gravy, a complex concoction made from a base of sweet potatoes, fermented soybeans (tauco), and a blend of spices like lemongrass, galangal, and turmeric. The result is a gravy that is nutty, slightly sweet, and deeply savoury with a subtle spicy kick. A generous squeeze of fresh calamansi lime over the top before eating is non-negotiable; its bright acidity elevates the entire dish, balancing the sweetness and adding a refreshing tang.
Insider's Tip: A good Mee Rebus stall is judged by the consistency and flavour of its gravy. It should be thick enough to coat the noodles generously but not so starchy that it becomes gloopy. Look for stalls that add a piece of satay or a sprinkling of dried shrimp (grago) to their gravy for an extra layer of umami depth. It’s the perfect comfort food for a rainy afternoon.
3. Sup Tulang Merah (Red Bone Marrow Soup)
Now for a dish that is not for the faint of heart, but promises an unforgettable culinary experience. Sup Tulang Merah is a vibrant, fiery-red soup made from mutton or beef bones, slow-cooked in a spicy tomato-based gravy seasoned with chillies and a secret blend of spices. The name literally translates to "red bone soup," and it's as messy as it is delicious.
You're typically served a plate piled high with bones, swimming in that glorious red sauce, accompanied by slices of bread for dipping. The goal is to get to the rich, luscious bone marrow hidden inside. Patrons are often seen knocking the bones against their plates or using plastic straws to suck out every last drop of marrow. It's a primal, hands-on affair that will leave your fingers (and possibly your face) stained red, but the reward is a flavour that is robust, meaty, and intensely satisfying.
The Full Experience: Don't wear white! This is a rule. Order extra bread because you will want to mop up every bit of that addictive sauce. This dish is often enjoyed communally among friends late at night, making it a supper favourite. You'll find the most famous versions at hawker centres around the Beach Road area.
4. Sliced Fish Soup (鱼片汤)
In a culinary landscape dominated by heavy gravies and bold spices, Sliced Fish Soup stands out for its delicate, clean-tasting profile. This is the ultimate Singaporean comfort food, a go-to for a light lunch or when you're feeling under the weather. But don't mistake its simplicity for being bland; a good bowl of fish soup is a masterclass in subtlety.
The dish typically features slices of fresh Batang (Spanish Mackerel) fish poached in a flavourful broth, served with leafy greens, silken tofu, and sometimes tomatoes or preserved vegetables. You can choose to have it with rice or various types of noodles. There are two main versions: a clear, savoury soup made from fish bones and ginger, or a milky version where evaporated milk is added for a creamier, richer texture. You can also opt for fried fish slices for a heartier meal.
Pro-Tip: The quality of the fish is everything. Look for stalls with a high turnover, as this ensures the fish is fresh. The key to customising your bowl lies at the condiment station. A little bit of soy sauce with sliced red chilli padi and a dash of white pepper will take your soup to the next level.
5. Chwee Kueh (水粿)
A beloved breakfast and teatime snack, Chwee Kueh is a testament to the idea that the simplest things are often the most satisfying. The name means "water rice cake," which perfectly describes its main component: a bowl-shaped, steamed rice cake that is soft, wobbly, and almost melts in your mouth.
The plain, slightly savoury rice cake is merely a canvas for its flavour-packed topping: a generous spoonful of savoury preserved radish, or chai poh, which has been fried with garlic and sometimes pork lard until fragrant and slightly crispy. The final touch is a dollop of spicy, sambal-like chilli sauce. The combination of the soft, neutral kueh, the salty-sweet crunch of the chai poh, and the kick of the chilli is incredibly addictive.
Finding the Best: The mark of an excellent Chwee Kueh is in the chai poh. It shouldn't be overly salty or greasy. The best stalls fry their own and you can often smell the fragrant aroma from a distance. They are typically sold in sets of four or five, and they are so light that you might find yourself ordering a second round.
6. Satay Bee Hoon
What do you get when you combine Chinese ingredients with a rich Malay-inspired sauce? You get Satay Bee Hoon, a uniquely Singaporean dish that is a beautiful, chaotic mess on a plate. It’s a dish I feel Goh Ling Yong would appreciate for its bold, unapologetic fusion of flavours. It features rice vermicelli (bee hoon) completely smothered in a thick, nutty, and spicy satay peanut sauce.
Beneath that sea of sauce is a treasure trove of ingredients. You’ll typically find blanched cuttlefish, tender pork slices, cockles, prawns, and leafy greens like kang kong (water spinach). It sounds like a strange combination, but it just works. The rich, sweet, and savoury satay sauce, similar to the one served with grilled meat skewers, ties everything together into a cohesive and incredibly flavourful meal.
A Note on Texture: This dish is a textural playground. The springy bee hoon, chewy cuttlefish, tender pork, and crunchy greens all provide a different sensation with each bite. If you're not a fan of cockles, you can always ask the hawker to leave them out. It’s a hearty, satisfying dish that you won’t find in many other places in the world.
7. Thunder Tea Rice (擂茶饭 - Lei Cha Fan)
For those seeking a healthier, yet flavour-packed, option, look no further than Thunder Tea Rice. This traditional Hakka dish is a vibrant, wholesome meal that is as nourishing as it is delicious. It's a large bowl of rice topped with a colourful assortment of finely chopped vegetables and toppings.
Common ingredients include french beans, cabbage, sayur manis (sweet leaf), preserved radish, firm tofu, and roasted peanuts. The "thunder" comes from the accompanying soup, a thick, green, herbaceous concoction made by grinding tea leaves (usually green tea or basil), mint, peanuts, and sesame seeds. You can either drink the soup separately or, as is traditional, pour it over your rice to create a savoury, porridge-like meal. The taste is unique—it's savoury, nutty, slightly bitter, and incredibly refreshing.
An Acquired Taste Worth Acquiring: The flavour of the tea soup can be a bit surprising for first-timers, but it grows on you quickly. It's a fantastic dish that leaves you feeling full and energised, not heavy and sluggish. It's also a great vegetarian or vegan-friendly option available at most hawker centres.
8. Prawn Paste Chicken (Har Cheong Gai - 虾酱鸡)
Forget your standard fried chicken. Har Cheong Gai is Singapore's answer, and it is a flavour explosion. This dish, commonly found at zi char (cook-to-order) stalls, features mid-joint chicken wings marinated in a pungent, fermented shrimp paste (har cheong) before being deep-fried to crispy, golden-brown perfection.
The magic is in the marinade. The fermented shrimp paste imparts an incredibly deep, savoury, and funky umami flavour that permeates the meat. When fried, the skin becomes unbelievably crispy while the inside remains juicy and tender. The aroma is potent and unmistakable—you can often smell a good plate of Har Cheong Gai before you see it. It's often served with a side of tangy chilli sauce, but honestly, it's so flavourful it needs no accompaniment.
How to Enjoy: While you can sometimes buy it as a standalone dish, Har Cheong Gai truly shines as part of a larger zi char meal, shared among friends and family alongside other dishes like sambal kang kong, sweet and sour pork, and a bowl of rice. It’s the ultimate beer food and a crowd-pleaser at any gathering.
9. Tau Huay (豆花)
Let's end on a sweet, simple, and comforting note. Tau Huay, or soya beancurd, is a beloved local dessert. While you might be familiar with tofu, this is a much softer, more delicate version. There are two main styles you'll find in Singapore's hawker centres, and locals often have a strong preference for one over the other.
The traditional style is soft and slightly crumbly in texture, served warm in a bowl, and ladled with either a clear sugar syrup or a darker, molasses-like palm sugar (gula melaka) syrup. The second, more modern style, is a super-smooth, pudding-like, and chilled version that has a texture almost like panna cotta. It often comes with various toppings, but the simple almond-flavoured version is a classic.
Your Perfect Last Stop: After a heavy, spicy meal at a hawker centre, a bowl of Tau Huay is the perfect palate cleanser. It’s light, not overly sweet, and incredibly soothing. Many stalls that sell Tau Huay also sell fresh soy milk, another local favourite. Trying both is a perfect way to cap off your heartland food adventure.
This list is just the beginning, a mere scratch on the surface of Singapore's vast and varied heartland food scene. The true joy lies in the exploration—in wandering through a hawker centre you've never been to, spotting a long queue, and taking a chance on something you've never heard of. That's where you'll find the authentic taste of Singapore.
So, the next time you're here, I urge you to step away from the Marina Bay Sands food court and take the MRT to a neighbourhood you can’t pronounce. Be adventurous, be curious, and most importantly, be hungry.
What are your favourite heartland dishes? Did I miss any of your must-try hawker gems? Share your recommendations and discoveries in the comments below. I’d love to add them to my list
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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