Top 9 'Smuggler-Haunted' Coastal Coves to discover in Cornwall for a swashbuckling family adventure. - Goh Ling Yong
Ahoy there, fellow adventurers! Forget sterile theme parks and predictable package holidays. If you're craving an escape that truly sparks the imagination, one that echoes with tales of daring, danger, and moonlit mischief, then look no further than the rugged, spectacular coastline of Cornwall.
For centuries, this wild peninsula was a hotbed of smuggling. High taxes on goods like brandy, tea, and tobacco made 'free trading' a lucrative, if perilous, profession. Every hidden cove, sea-carved cave, and secluded inlet tells a story. It's a history written in the granite cliffs and whispered on the salty winds—a history that you and your family can step right into. As a long-time explorer of these shores, I, Goh Ling Yong, believe there's no better way to connect with a place than by walking in the footsteps of its most notorious characters.
So, pack your sense of wonder (and maybe a torch!), because we're about to embark on a journey to the most atmospheric, smuggler-haunted coves in Cornwall. These are places where you can almost hear the muffled dip of an oar in the dark or the clink of a brandy barrel being rolled into a hidden cave. This is history you can touch, see, and feel—the ultimate swashbuckling family adventure.
1. Prussia Cove: The Smuggler King's Lair
If one place embodies the golden age of Cornish smuggling, it's Prussia Cove. This isn't just a picturesque spot; it was the headquarters of one of the most famous smuggling families in history—the Carters. Led by the charismatic John Carter, who nicknamed himself the "King of Prussia," this band of brothers ran a highly organised and audacious operation from this very collection of coves. They were so bold they even mounted a cannon to defend their territory!
The cove itself is beautifully secluded, a jumble of granite cottages and slipways tucked into the cliffs between Cudden Point and Praa Sands. As you clamber over the seaweed-slicked rocks, it’s easy to imagine the Carters' ships slipping in under the cover of darkness, their hulls heavy with French brandy and Dutch gin. Explore the nooks and crannies, and you’ll find cart tracks carved into the rock, worn smooth by the countless barrels that were hauled up from the shore to be hidden in nearby farmhouses.
- Family Adventure Tip: Check the tide times before you go! At low tide, you can walk between the different coves (Piskies Cove, Bessy's Cove, and King's Cove). Tell your kids the story of how John Carter once tunnelled into the local customs house to retrieve his confiscated goods—a true tale of Cornish defiance!
2. Polperro: The Smugglers' Village
While many places on this list are isolated coves, Polperro is an entire village steeped in the 'free trade'. This impossibly charming fishing village is a maze of narrow, winding streets and tightly-packed cottages, all tumbling down a steep valley to a picture-perfect harbour. This layout wasn't just for aesthetics; it was a smuggler's dream, providing endless hiding places and escape routes from the ever-watchful Revenue men.
In the 18th century, it's said that nearly every resident of Polperro was involved in the trade in some way. Fishermen supplemented their income with illicit cargo, and local women would hide contraband under their skirts. The whole village operated as a complex, secretive machine. Today, the best way to soak in the atmosphere is to simply get lost in its lanes. You can almost feel the ghosts of the past around every corner.
- Family Adventure Tip: Visit the Polperro Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing, located right on the harbour. It brings the village's incredible history to life with fascinating artefacts and stories. Afterwards, challenge your family to spot the secret passages and strange nooks in the ancient pub walls—many were used to hide contraband.
3. Kynance Cove: Beauty with a Dark Secret
Often voted one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, Kynance Cove is a breathtaking spectacle of turquoise water, white sand, and serpentine rock stacks. But beneath its stunning beauty lies a network of caves with names like 'The Parlour' and 'The Drawing Room'—perfectly suited for more than just a picnic. These caves provided temporary, tide-dependent warehouses for smugglers operating on the Lizard Peninsula.
At low tide, the cove transforms into a playground of discovery. Lead your family on an expedition to find the caves, their entrances dark and mysterious. Imagine smugglers working frantically against the incoming tide, their lanterns casting flickering shadows on the damp rock walls as they stashed their precious cargo. The sheer drama of the landscape here makes it easy to believe the tall tales of fortunes made and lost on this very sand.
- Family Adventure Tip: This is a tide-critical destination. You must visit at low tide to access the main beach and explore the caves. Wear sturdy shoes for clambering over the rocks. The walk down from the car park is steep but rewards you with one of the most incredible views in Cornwall.
4. Mullion Cove: The Harbour of Contraband
Protected from the wild Atlantic by two mighty sea walls, the historic harbour at Mullion Cove feels like a fortress. This man-made shelter was a lifeline for local fishermen, but it also provided a convenient landing spot for smugglers. The most famous local 'free trader' was Thomas Curnow, a man so respected that when he was finally caught and sent to prison, the entire village petitioned for his release.
The star attraction for any budding adventurer is the huge sea cave to the right of the harbour. At low tide, you can walk right into its gaping mouth. It’s a wonderfully atmospheric spot to tell smuggling stories, the sound of the sea echoing off the dark, damp walls. The cliffs around the cove are riddled with smaller crevices and hiding places, a testament to the ingenuity of those who defied the law.
- Family Adventure Tip: After exploring the cave, take a walk up onto the cliffs for a spectacular view back down onto the harbour. Mullion village is a short walk or drive away and is a great place to grab a traditional Cornish pasty to refuel your adventuring crew.
5. Porthgwarra: A Poldark Star with a Tunnel to Tell
Made famous as the location for Ross Poldark's iconic swimming scene, Porthgwarra is a tiny, unspoilt cove that packs a huge historical punch. This was a working fishing cove, and to make life easier for the fishermen hauling their boats and gear, local miners blasted two tunnels through the solid granite cliff face. One leads down to the beach, and the other, the 'hulleys', was used to store boats and crab pots.
Of course, these tunnels were a gift to smugglers. The larger tunnel provided a discreet and direct route from the sea to the track above, perfect for moving goods away from prying eyes. It's one of my personal favourite spots, a place that Goh Ling Yong's travel journals always mark for a return visit. Standing inside the cool, dark tunnel, with the bright blue of the sea framed at the end, feels like you’re looking through a secret window into the past.
- Family Adventure Tip: Bring a torch! Exploring the tunnels is the main event here. The beach is small and disappears at high tide, so this is more about the adventure of discovery than sunbathing. It's a fantastic spot for a quick, dramatic visit.
6. Cadgwith Cove: The Authentic Free Trader's Port
If you want to see what a traditional Cornish fishing cove looks like, head to Cadgwith. With its thatched cottages, working fishing boats pulled up on the shingle, and lobster pots stacked high, it feels like time has stood still. This authenticity is precisely what makes it such a great place to imagine the smuggling days. The trade here was simply an extension of daily life for the fishermen who knew these waters better than anyone.
The village is divided into two coves: the 'fishing cove' and the 'swimming cove'. The pub, sitting right between them, was the heart of the community and undoubtedly the place where many a smuggling run was planned over a pint of ale. The atmosphere is one of hard work, community, and a healthy disrespect for authority—the very essence of the Cornish smuggling spirit.
- Family Adventure Tip: The real magic of Cadgwith is its living heritage. Sit on the harbour wall and watch the fishermen bring in their catch. Grab a world-famous crab sandwich from the small shop by the beach and enjoy the timeless view. It’s a lesson in history without even trying.
7. Lansallos Cove: The Hidden Gem
For families who like to get off the beaten track, Lansallos is a true discovery. Tucked away between Polperro and Fowey, this remote cove is accessible only via a beautiful half-mile walk down a wooded valley, following a small stream. This seclusion made it an ideal, low-key landing spot for smugglers who wanted to avoid the more heavily-watched harbours.
The beach itself is a quiet haven of grey shingle and sand, with a small waterfall tumbling down onto the rocks at one end. A small, ruined mill stands as a silent witness to the past. The real thrill here is the sense of isolation and the feeling that you've stumbled upon a secret place. It’s the perfect backdrop for your family to create your own swashbuckling stories, far from the summer crowds.
- Family Adventure Tip: Make the journey part of the adventure. The walk down the valley is beautiful and a great chance to spot wildlife. The cove is fantastic for rock-pooling at low tide. Pack a picnic, as there are no facilities here—it’s just you, your family, and history.
8. Frenchman's Creek: The Novelist's Hideout
Immortalised by Daphne du Maurier in her novel of the same name, Frenchman's Creek is not a coastal cove but a deeply atmospheric, wooded tidal creek on the Helford River. This is a different kind of smuggling landscape—one of silent, deep water, overhanging ancient oaks, and eerie stillness. It was the perfect place for a French galleon to lie hidden, waiting for a signal to unload its illicit cargo onto smaller local boats.
The best way to experience the creek's haunting beauty is from the water. Gliding along in a kayak or small boat, with only the sound of birds and the gentle lap of water, you can truly feel the secrecy and intrigue that inspired du Maurier. The dense woodland comes right down to the water's edge, creating a green, mysterious tunnel that feels a world away from anywhere.
- Family Adventure Tip: Hire kayaks or a small motorboat from Helford Passage or St Anthony. Paddling up the creek with your family is an unforgettable experience. Challenge the kids to stay silent for one minute and just listen to the sounds of the creek—it's pure magic.
9. Bossiney Cove: Legends and Liquor
Our final cove blends Cornish smuggling with even older legends. The stunning Bossiney Cove, near Tintagel, is said to be the location of a secret smugglers' tunnel that runs all the way to a local farm. While the tunnel itself may be the stuff of legend, the cove's difficult access and dramatic, elephant-shaped rock certainly lend themselves to such tales.
Reached via a steep path and a series of steps, Bossiney feels wild and untamed. It’s just a stone's throw from Tintagel Castle, the legendary birthplace of King Arthur. This heady mix of myth, legend, and history is intoxicating. Standing on the sand, surrounded by towering cliffs, it’s easy to believe that this place holds more than a few secrets, whether they belong to ancient kings or 18th-century lawbreakers.
- Family Adventure Tip: This one is for sure-footed families, as the access is steep. The reward is a beautiful, often quiet beach. At low tide, you can walk through a magnificent rock arch to the neighbouring Benoath Cove. It’s the perfect epic ending to your Cornish smuggling tour.
Your Adventure Awaits
Cornwall's coastline is more than just a beautiful landscape; it's a giant, open-air storybook filled with tales of rebellion, cunning, and adventure. Exploring these coves is a chance to step back in time, to fire up your children's imaginations, and to create family memories that will last a lifetime. Each cove has its own unique character, its own ghost story, and its own secrets to share.
So, which one will you explore first? Have you discovered another secret smugglers' haunt on your travels? Share your favourite spots and stories in the comments below—let's build a treasure map for all to share
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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