Top 9 'Stone-Ground' Nyonya Rempah Pastes to make for Unlocking the Secrets of Peranakan Cooking in 2025 - Goh Ling Yong
Step into any traditional Peranakan kitchen, and the first thing that greets you isn't a sight, but an intoxicating aroma. It's a complex, layered scent of toasted spices, pungent roots, and fiery chillies—a fragrance that promises a meal filled with depth and soul. This, my friends, is the magic of rempah, the foundational spice paste that is the very heart of Nyonya cooking. Without a good rempah, a curry is just a stew, and a sambal is just a hot sauce.
For generations, the rhythmic grinding of spices on a batu giling (granite stone mill) was the daily heartbeat of the home. This wasn't just about breaking down ingredients; it was a ritual. The slow, crushing motion of stone on stone coaxes out essential oils and flavours in a way no modern, high-speed blender can replicate. It creates a paste with a unique, fibrous texture that melts into a dish, creating unparalleled depth. While a food processor is a fantastic modern convenience, understanding the 'stone-ground' ideal is key to grasping the essence of Peranakan flavour.
As we look towards 2025, there's a beautiful resurgence in embracing heritage cooking techniques. More and more home cooks are discovering that the secrets to incredible flavour aren't found in a jar, but in the fresh, vibrant rempahs they can create themselves. Ready to unlock the true soul of Peranakan cuisine? Here are the top 9 essential 'stone-ground' Nyonya rempah pastes you need to master.
1. Rempah Titek (The Versatile White Rempah)
Think of Rempah Titek as the elegant, foundational building block of many non-spicy Nyonya dishes. Its colour is a pale, creamy white, derived from its core ingredients: shallots, garlic, galangal, and candlenuts (buah keras). The name 'titek' comes from the traditional method of pounding the ingredients in a mortar and pestle (lesung batu). This paste is all about aromatic subtlety, providing a fragrant, savoury base that enhances the main ingredients without overpowering them.
The beauty of Rempah Titek lies in its versatility. It’s the soul of the famous Peranakan braised pork dish, Babi Pongteh, where its mild aromatics perfectly complement the sweetness of fermented soybeans (taucu). It’s also used in Ayam Sioh (Chicken in Tamarind and Coriander) and various vegetable stir-fries. The candlenuts are crucial here; not only do they add a subtle nutty flavour, but they also act as a natural thickener, giving the resulting gravy a luscious, creamy consistency.
Pro Tip: To get the best texture, always grind the harder ingredients like galangal first before adding the softer shallots and garlic. If using a blender out of convenience, add a splash of oil instead of water to help create a smoother paste and prevent the ingredients from 'boiling' from the blade's friction. Sauté this rempah gently over low heat until it releases a beautiful, sweet fragrance.
2. Rempah Merah (The Fiery Red Chilli Rempah)
This is the bold, fiery heart of Nyonya cooking. Rempah Merah, or red rempah, is instantly recognisable by its vibrant crimson hue and its punchy, spicy kick. The foundation of this paste is a generous amount of dried red chillies, which are rehydrated and ground with shallots, garlic, and the indispensable fermented shrimp paste, belacan. The belacan adds an incredibly deep, savoury umami flavour that is quintessentially Southeast Asian.
This is the rempah that powers iconic dishes like Sambal Tumis, the versatile chilli paste served with Nasi Lemak, and Ayam Masak Merah. The key to a great Rempah Merah is achieving the state of pecah minyak—sautéing the paste slowly until the oil visibly separates from the solids. This process mellows the raw pungency of the ingredients, deepens the flavours, and ensures the rempah is properly cooked, giving the final dish a beautiful glossy sheen and preventing any indigestion.
Pro Tip: The type of dried chilli you use will dictate the heat and colour. For a vibrant red without overwhelming heat, use larger, milder varieties and be sure to snip them open and discard the seeds before soaking. Toasting your belacan lightly in a dry pan before grinding it will awaken its pungent aroma and add another layer of complexity.
3. Rempah Kuning (The Aromatic Yellow Turmeric Rempah)
If Rempah Merah is the fire, Rempah Kuning is the fragrant, golden earth. This yellow rempah gets its brilliant colour and signature flavour from fresh turmeric root. It’s a complex and aromatic blend that often includes galangal, lemongrass, shallots, garlic, and candlenuts. This paste is less about searing heat and more about a warm, earthy, and slightly peppery fragrance that forms the base of countless Nyonya curries, known as gulai or lemak.
Rempah Kuning is the star in dishes like Nyonya Chicken Curry, where it infuses coconut milk with its beautiful colour and aroma. It’s also essential for Gulai Ikan (Fish Curry) and various vegetable lemak dishes. The combination of turmeric and lemongrass is a classic Nyonya pairing, creating a scent that is both uplifting and deeply comforting. Here at the Goh Ling Yong blog, we believe this is one of the first curry pastes every aspiring Nyonya chef should master.
Pro Tip: Always use fresh turmeric root for the most vibrant colour and flavour; the powdered version just can't compare. When handling fresh turmeric, be aware that it will stain your hands, cutting board, and everything else yellow! You can wear gloves or rub your hands with a little cooking oil beforehand to minimise staining.
4. Rempah for Ayam Buah Keluak (The Iconic Black Nut Rempah)
This is arguably the most iconic and revered rempah in the Peranakan culinary canon. It is built specifically for one dish: Ayam Buah Keluak, a chicken (or pork) dish defined by the rich, earthy, and utterly unique flavour of the buah keluak nut. The nut itself is poisonous when raw and must undergo a long process of fermentation and preparation before it's safe to eat. Its flavour is often described as a complex mix of dark chocolate, black olives, and truffle—a true delicacy.
The rempah itself is a variation of a red or yellow rempah, typically containing shallots, galangal, lemongrass, turmeric, and dried chillies. However, the ground buah keluak flesh is incorporated directly into the paste during the grinding process. This creates a dark, almost black, and intensely flavourful rempah that is then sautéed with tamarind juice to create the signature thick, dark gravy of the dish.
Pro Tip: Preparing buah keluak is a labour of love. The nuts must be scrubbed and soaked for several days (with daily water changes) to leach out any bitterness. Crack them open carefully at the top, and scoop out the precious black paste. Some families mix this paste with minced prawns or pork before stuffing it back into the shells—a truly special touch.
5. Rempah for Ikan Gerang Asam (The Tangy & Spicy Fish Rempah)
Gerang Asam translates to 'sour spicy stew', and this rempah is engineered to deliver exactly that. It's a fiery, aromatic paste that forms the base for a beloved Nyonya fish dish that is both stimulating and incredibly addictive. The rempah is typically a vibrant red or orange, made from a blend of fresh and dried chillies, shallots, turmeric, galangal, and a touch of belacan.
What sets this rempah apart is how it’s designed to work in harmony with the souring agent, usually tamarind pulp juice (air asam), which is added during the cooking process. The rempah provides the heat and the aromatic depth, while the tamarind provides the characteristic tang. This creates a beautiful, light-bodied gravy that is perfect with oily fish like mackerel or stingray, and often includes vegetables like okra and tomatoes.
Pro Tip: The balance of spicy, sour, and savoury is everything in Ikan Gerang Asam. When you tumis the rempah, make sure it’s deeply fragrant before adding the tamarind juice. Taste and adjust the seasoning at the end; you might need a pinch of sugar to round out the sourness and a bit more salt to bring all the flavours together.
6. Rempah for Laksa Lemak (The Soul of Nyonya Laksa)
The soul of a magnificent bowl of Nyonya Laksa is not just the creamy coconut milk, but the intensely flavourful and complex rempah simmering within it. This is one of the more intricate rempahs, boasting a long list of ingredients that all play a vital role. Core components include dried chillies, shallots, galangal, lemongrass, fresh turmeric, candlenuts, coriander seeds, and the all-important dried shrimp (hae bee).
The hae bee is what gives Laksa Lemak its signature umami depth and slightly gritty, addictive texture. When ground into the paste and then sautéed, it releases an incredible seafood fragrance that is the hallmark of a great laksa. This rempah is a true symphony of flavours—spicy, savoury, aromatic, and slightly sweet, all coming together to create the rich, orange-hued broth that we all know and love.
Pro Tip: To really elevate your laksa rempah, soak the dried shrimp in hot water for 15 minutes, then drain and toast them lightly in a dry wok until they are fragrant and completely dry. This intensifies their flavour before you grind them. As Goh Ling Yong often advises, taking this small extra step makes a world of difference.
7. Rempah for Satay Marinade (The Nutty & Aromatic Dry Rempah)
While we often think of rempahs as wet pastes for curries, they are also used as marinades. The rempah for Nyonya-style satay is a perfect example. It's typically a thicker, less oily paste designed to cling to the meat and infuse it with flavour before it hits the charcoal grill. The flavour profile is a masterful blend of aromatic, sweet, and savoury.
Key ingredients include shallots, garlic, galangal, and lots of lemongrass, but the stars are the dry spices: ground coriander, cumin, fennel, and turmeric powder. These are blended into a thick paste, often with a bit of sugar (traditionally gula melaka) and salt. This rempah doesn't just flavour the meat; the turmeric gives the satay its iconic golden colour, and the sugar helps it caramelise beautifully over the hot coals.
Pro Tip: For the most flavourful satay, marinate your chicken or beef for at least 6 hours, or preferably overnight. When pounding or blending the lemongrass, only use the tender white inner part of the stalk for a finer texture and more concentrated flavour.
8. Rempah for Inche Kabin (The Crispy Fried Chicken Marinade)
Inche Kabin is the quintessential Nyonya fried chicken, famous for its incredibly crispy skin and moist, flavourful meat. The secret lies in its unique two-part frying process and, more importantly, its distinctive marinade rempah. This rempah is a fragrant, paste-like blend that is more about dry spice than wet aromatics.
The base often includes shallots, garlic, and ginger, but it's heavily seasoned with a specific spice blend of coriander powder, cumin, fennel, turmeric, chilli powder, and often a touch of white pepper. This paste is rubbed all over the chicken pieces, which are then left to marinate, absorbing all the wonderful flavours. Crucially, coconut milk is often added to the marinade, which not only tenderises the meat but also helps create that signature craggy, crispy crust when fried.
Pro Tip: After the first fry, the chicken is rested and then flash-fried a second time just before serving. This is the secret to its legendary crispiness. Don't overcrowd the pan when frying; this lowers the oil temperature and results in greasy, rather than crispy, chicken.
9. Rempah Cincalok (The Pungent Umami Bomb)
For the adventurous palate, this rempah showcases the funkier, more pungent side of Nyonya cuisine. It is built around cincalok, a salty, pinkish, and powerfully aromatic condiment made from fermented krill or small shrimp. It's a true umami bomb that adds an irreplaceable savoury and slightly tangy depth to dishes.
The rempah itself is relatively simple, designed to complement and enhance the cincalok. It typically consists of shallots, fresh red chillies, and sometimes a stalk of lemongrass, all ground together. This paste is then sautéed before the cincalok is added, often along with pork belly or prawns, to create dishes like Babi Cincalok. The result is a dish that is intensely savoury, spicy, and utterly delicious—a true taste of old-school Nyonya home cooking.
Pro Tip: Cincalok can be very salty, so use a light hand with any additional salt in the dish. Always taste before you season. A generous squeeze of fresh calamansi lime juice at the end of cooking helps to cut through the richness and brighten up the pungent flavours of the fermented shrimp.
Your Culinary Journey Starts Here
Mastering these nine rempahs is like learning the foundational chords of Peranakan music. Once you understand them, you can start to play your own beautiful culinary symphonies. While the process of pounding or grinding your own spice pastes takes time and effort, the reward is immeasurable. You are not just cooking; you are connecting with a rich heritage, creating flavours that are impossible to replicate from a jar.
So, roll up your sleeves, pull out your lesung batu or food processor, and fill your kitchen with the incredible aromas of Nyonya cooking. The journey to unlocking these culinary secrets is one of the most delicious you will ever take.
Which rempah will you try to make first? Do you have a family recipe or a special tip to share? Let us know your thoughts and share your Peranakan cooking journey in the comments below! Don't forget to subscribe for more deep dives into the heart of authentic Nyonya cuisine.
About the Author
Goh Ling Yong is a content creator and digital strategist sharing insights across various topics. Connect and follow for more content:
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